Family-friendly Galapagos cruising

On another morning, we struggle out of bed in the pitch black of 5am to be rewarded with views of the erupting Sierra Negra volcano on Isabela Island. In scenes reminiscent of Dante’s Inferno, we watch in awe as this cauldron of geothermal turmoil shoots jets of molten lava into the air along with billowing plumes of sulphur curling upwards into heavy clouds hanging overhead.

A few hours later, we’re floating through mangroves, spotting manta rays, blue-footed boobies and waddles of curious Galapagos penguins that plop off rocky outcrops to swim over to our boat and dive underneath.

The islands’ rugged landscapes and stunning viewpoints are a draw in themselves, particularly on our final day when we travel into the lush highlands of Santa Cruz to visit the giant tortoise breeding centre, located by the Charles Darwin Research Station.

About 40,000 of these hulking creatures still roam wild here and we soon glimpse them grazing in surrounding fields or ambling along country tracks, oblivious to the cars and trucks forced to drive around them.

Arriving at larger islands such as Santa Cruz and San Cristobal, which have sizeable populations of 20,000 and 8,000 respectively, also introduces tourist shops, which we can’t resist, and the girls spend their dollars on silver charms of turtles and sea lions.

But for us, it’s the sea that holds the key to the most incredible experiences, where we spot skulking reef sharks and revel in thrilling encounters with penguins that zip past us and fun-loving sea lions diving around in play.

As a family trip, the Galapagos wins hands down as the best, most memorable experience we’ve ever had. It doesn’t just beat expectations – it smashes them.

Book it: An 11-night package comprising the one-week Galapagos Inner Loop cruise, two nights in Quito pre-cruise and one night post-cruise costs from £4,993pp including all flights, drinks, Wi-Fi, excursions and gratuities. It departs on March 24, 2019

• celebritycruises.co.uk

Carrying just 100 passengers, Celebrity Xpedition may be one of the larger ships sailing around the Galapagos Islands, but it is still tiny by cruise ship standards with a homely house party ambience. Most of the action revolves around the main Discovery Lounge, which doubles as an evening entertainment venue, briefing area for trips and meeting place before going onshore. We often gather here for pre-dinner drinks to chat to people we’ve met on excursions, while the adjacent outside deck is an ideal relaxation spot and venue for alfresco lunches. The added benefit is spotting any passing marine-life, which on one day is a 100-strong school of dolphins, carving through the waves and jumping out of the water in an amazing spectacle. Meals are served in Darwin’s Restaurant, with buffet breakfast followed by themed lunch buffets, while we enjoy tasty dinners of dishes including salmon ceviche, Galapagos lobster and Cajun-spiced snapper. The Beagle Grill doubles as a reservation-only night-time spot, but we prefer Darwin’s, though the weekly sunset barbecue on deck is a real highlight with an impressive spread of dishes. Cabins are more about comfort and convenience than luxury, but are a decent size with good storage space. We’re hardly in them anyway as days are taken up with tours, which are incredibly well organised, with the procedure of kitting everyone out with wetsuits, getting them into Zodiacs and escorting the tours an impressive smooth-running operation. The sociable Ecuadorian crew are another big plus, who match friendliness with efficiency and, after a few days, even remember which drinks I like. With gratuities, drinks, tours and snorkelling trips included, we don’t need to budget for much else, while a lovely additional touch is a memory stick of pictures taken by the guides during the week and given to everyone on the final evening. In September, Celebrity Xpedition was revamped with new soft furnishings, upgraded Wi-Fi and improved lighting. Further work is scheduled next spring when suites and staterooms will be upgraded. This paves the way for Celebrity’s new luxury 100-passenger expedition ship Celebrity Flora, which claims to be the first purpose-built vessel for the Galapagos Islands. It is due to launch next May, boasting new dining options, an open-air stargazing platform, stylish decor and anchorless technology that enables it to maintain position without damaging the sea-bed.

1 As the Galapagos Islands sit on the equator, about 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, there is no off-season. July to November is dry season with strong winds and the sea is cooler due to the Humboldt Current, while December to June is the hotter rainy season.

2 Every month brings different natural milestones. For instance, January is when green turtles lay their eggs, August is baby sea lion season, and November is good for whale shark sightings.

3 Bookings are normally made at least a year in advance, though it is worth checking for late availability.

4 Most Galapagos trips are via Ecuador’s capital Quito and, as there are no direct flights from the UK, routes tend to be via Madrid, Amsterdam’s Schiphol or a US hub. There are also flights from the Ecuadorian coastal port, Guayaquil.

5 As it is such a long journey (12 hours from Schiphol to Quito, then 2 hours from Quito to Baltra in the Galapagos), add hotel stays in Quito on the outward and inbound legs. It’s a fascinating city to explore and this breaks up the journey, giving travellers time to acclimatise.

6 To get the best out of the trip, passengers need to be reasonably fit and active. Advise them to take waterproof shoes for wet beach landings, hiking shoes and/or trainers, plus conventional and underwater cameras to capture those many magical moments.

7 Advise them not to take any fresh fruit or seeds; all luggage is screened by Galapagos National Park Authority staff for anything that could threaten the ecosystem.