Island-hopping around the Finnish archipelago

HITTING THE TRAIL

My tranquil sea kayak tour with experts Aavameri proves a hearty appetiser for my exploration of the Archipelago Trail, a 100km journey that begins in sleepy Turku, unrecognisable as a former capital. Here, summer’s rays and endless days draw locals to laze by its Aura river as I beat a pilgrim’s path to the celebrated restaurants lining its banks.

Opting to stay out of town, I bypass Naantali, the region’s self-proclaimed holiday capital,
 to stay at the nearby Ruissalo Spa. Though
 an uninspiring property in itself, the Ruissalo makes the most of its setting, enveloped by forest trails and a delightful stretch of water that supports seasonal excursions such as midnight sun boat trips on the Baltic Sea (£73pp; 1 June-15 August).

Finally striking out on the Archipelago Trail,
I find the free yellow ferries and gently rolling landscape make for easy touring and discover many roadside reasons to linger, from Sattmark Kaffe’s healthfully hearty dining to hikes and bike rentals. Based around an old fishermen’s village, the quirky Mama’s Pocket delivers another highlight with its traditional smoke saunas.

Grabbing an overnight Viking Line ship from Turku, I sail on to Mariehamn, the Russian- founded capital of the Aland Islands, with their intriguing mix of Swedish and Finnish influences.

Many of Mariehamn’s attractions are linked 
to the sea, such as its historic Maritime quarter and Maritime Museum, where I tour the recently renovated tall ship, Pommern.

The Alands comprise thousands of islands and islets. Only 60 are inhabited year round, however, backed by homely guesthouses such as Kvarnbo and Bjornhofvda, and excellent gastronomy served up by local institutions such as Vasterro, Smakbyn and the Stallhagen microbrewery, where the ales take centre stage during a highly enjoyable pairing dinner.

Bridges link the main islands but for others you must take to the sea. I reach teeny-tiny Koba Kittila on a small boat from Mariehamn, exploring the weather-ravaged outcrop’s historic Pilot Station and art installations before demolishing an enormous custard and jam doughnut at the cosy cafe.

Savouring the edge-of-the-world-like location, I reflect how arriving by boat feels almost like cheating, my last visit having involved an eventful kayak trip, bouncing around on the waves as enormous ferries loomed overhead.