“Food is the love language of Hawaiʻi,” says our guide Lee, as we pull up at a food truck on Oʻahu’s North Shore. Locals are tucking into fish tacos and haupia pie (chocolate pie with a coconut layer) at beachside bench tables with Pacific Ocean views.
In Hawaii everyone has a food recommendation, whether it is where to find the best poke shack, the tastiest loco moco – the unofficial national dish combines a hamburger patty with rice topped with egg and gravy – or the peculiarly Hawaiian dessert, ‘shave ice.’ Desiccated into frozen flakes, shave ice comes in flavours as obscure as matcha and pickled mango and is sometimes topped with condensed milk or Japanese mochi.
Settled by seafaring Polynesians in the 11th century it reveals many influences. Immigrants from China and Japan introduced sesame oil, a key ingredient in poke. Bacalao poke, another Portuguese import, is made with salted dried cod fish. Even the ukulele was introduced by immigrants from the Azores and Madeira.
Island rhythms
I’m dividing my time in Hawaiʻi between Oʻahu and Hawaiʻi island, two of the six visitable islands in the Hawaiian archipelago. Each of Oʻahu, the Island of Hawaiʻi (or Hawaiʻi island) Kauaʻi, Maui, Molokaʻi and Lānaʻi moves to its own rhythm.
I was lured to Hawai’i by its natural wonders, but soon realise that soaring volcanic peaks, plunging waterfalls, beaches and waterfalls are only half the story. Food, culture, a range of activities and the ubiquitous warm and genuine welcome are all highlights. “Hawaiʻi is versatile destination and works as well for families as it does for honeymooners,” says Emily Summers, US product manager, Audley Travel. “Get to the heart of what your client wants and there will be a holiday to suit.”
Oʻahu is home to the state capital and flight hub Honolulu as well as the world-famous Waikīkī Beach and Pearl Harbour National Memorial. The island brims with historic landmarks and museums, including the former royal residence, Iolani Palace and hotels range from the stylish, boutique Romer House Waikīkī to the Courtyard Oahu North Shore, steps from a pristine white-sand beach.
Hawaiʻi Island is home to the smouldering Volcanoes National Park and has a black-sand beach where green turtles feed on seaweed. Maui is known for its spectacular golden beaches, humpback whale sightings and dormant volcano crater, Haleakalā. The 65-mile Road to Hana, which scoops up jungle, lava caves and sea-cliff panoramas is a spectacular self-drive route.
Planning a multi-centre holiday can be daunting but don’t logistics and geography deter you. Operators including Audley, First Class Holidays, Titan and Gold Medal all offer multi-island itineraries that incorporate short inter-island flights and there are downloadable brochures and an interactive map on the Hawaiʻi Tourism site (agents.gohawaii.com). Complete the training programme to become a certified Hawai’i Destination Specialist.
“When you factor in possible stopovers, inter-islands flights and multiple car hires, having the security of an operator makes a difference,” says Summers. A flight from San Francisco to Honolulu takes just under six hours.
Operators also combine west coast US cities with Hawaiʻi. First Class Holidays combines the contrasting landscapes of Alaska and Hawaii on a tailor made trip that takes in glaciers, wildlife and volcanos.
Local experiences
Fortified by our food-truck lunch on Oʻahu’s north shore we continue our drive around the coast’s legendary surfing beaches before heading inland to join Keola Ryan from North Shore Eco Tours. At the start of our walk into the Opae’ula Valley Keola greets the forest with a chant, or oli. He is observing the custom of mālama, which means to take care of, or protect, by asking permission for our visit.
Our guided hike is as culturally enlightening as it is scenically rewarding. With plant identification – wild bananas, ginger root, strawberry guava and endemic acacia koa – comes island wisdom and an insight into ancient mythology.
Sustainable tours that immerse travellers in nature and local experiences are becoming increasingly popular according to Hawaiʻi Tourism. “Through the Mālama Hawaiʻi Program several organisations invite visitors to engage in volunteer opportunities such as beach clean-ups, harvesting kalo (taro), native tree planting and more,” said a spokesperson.
Audley Travel has added a summit tour of Mauna Kea, a Kohala Waterfalls tour (both on Hawaiʻi Island), and a mālama, or sustainable culture experience at Kualoa Ranch to its range.
The Kohala Ranch nature reserve on Oʻahu sprawls over 4,000 acres and has been used for scores of Hollywood movies and TV shows. On e-bikes we cycle through Ka’a’awa Valley under electric-green saw-toothed peaks taking selfies by Jurassic Park dinosaurs, Godzilla’s footprints and the Kong: Skull Island bone yard.
Our flight to Hilo on Hawaiʻi Island takes 50 minutes. Nestled on the slopes of three volcanoes, Hilo exudes small-town charm. I peruse its art galleries and surf shops and call into a stylish Hawaiian shirt shop. Owner-designer Sig Zane tells me his designs draw inspiration from nature and native culture. “Every shirt tells a story,” he says.
Star turn
Hawaiʻi Island is home to five volcanoes and hundreds of cacao and coffee plantations, many of which offer tours. The Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park encompasses the summits of the active Kīlauea and Mauna Loa volcanoes and to the north lays Hawaiʻi’s most scared volcano, Mauna Kea (white mountain). A group of telescopes at its summit form the world’s largest astronomical observatory.
On a thrilling summit and stargazing tour, our off-road vehicle follows a winding uphill road between conical cinder cones and lava plateaus before emerging an hour later above the cloud layer. After watching the sun sink into a pillow of cloud I peer at the rings of Saturn through a telescope and follow a guided tour of the star-speckled sky.
In Hilo, I finish as I began, with food. Kula Shave Ice, which uses locally sourced fruit and organic cane sugar. As I dig a spoon into ‘The Lava Flow’ – strawberry ice topped with haupia cream and liliko‘i (passion fruit) butter I remember Lee’s words. Food really is the love language of Hawaiʻi.
Book it: First Class Holidays offers a 13-day Fire and Ice – First Time Favourites of Alaska and Hawaiʻi itinerary from £6,498pp departing on 29 May 2025. Includes six nights in each of Alaska and the Hawaiin islands of Oʻahu and Maui; international and local flights; hotels and several excursions including Gold Star Dome service aboard the Alaska Railroad train; fcholidays.com
