Something bizarre is happening. Looking around the dinner table at a group of fed-and-watered TTG Sustainable Travel Ambassadors, I see the agents’ smiles are wide and all eyes are fixed on a dancing shepherd – a 70-something, white-haired, crook-carrying shepherd who is kicking his legs and waving his arms in a jig more advisable for someone quite a few decades his junior. As we watch the impressive – and totally impromptu – scene, we sip raki and clap to the plucky melody of the Cretan lute and lyra that locals Yannis and Stelios are strumming some of the island’s most traditional tunes on.
This is how we’re spending our evening at Alonia Guesthouse, which is one of the many locally run accommodations we’re staying at during the TTG Sustainable Travel Heroes fam trip hosted in partnership with Intrepid, Avis and the Greek National Tourism Organisation. The family-run, bothy-style guesthouse sits in the foothills of Crete’s White Mountains, in the remote village of Agios Ioannis that has a grand total of 15 residents. You can’t get more off the beaten track than this.
“It’s eco-tourism at its finest,” says Molly Cofman-Nicoresti, industry partnerships manager at Intrepid, explaining the tour operator has partnered with non-profit organisation MEET to bring this unique experience to its customers. “Our Highlights of Crete tour allows travellers to discover the real Crete by visiting its quieter corners,” she adds.
We’ve embarked on a condensed version of this itinerary and built in a couple of days to explore the island at our own pace in Avis’ hybrid vehicles. “Having a car has such a beneficial impact on the destination because tourists drive through towns and villages that would otherwise go unseen and enjoy local businesses that are often overlooked,” explains Sophie Nelson, travel and partnerships manager (international) at Avis Budget Group. “Bringing tourism to these rarely visited parts means the local community can thrive.”
Community connections
One experience Intrepid has incorporated into Highlights of Crete is a cooking class in suburban Chania. Greeted by Anna and Eleni of Soul Cooking Workshops with a cooling lemonade made using fruits from the tree in Anna’s back yard, which is where the class is taking place, we swiftly get stuck in to crafting kalitsounia. These are Cretan cheese and herb pastries that require mixing mizithra and anthotyro cheeses with spinach, leeks, onions, parsley, fennel and mint, before rolling the concoction into rounds the size of golf balls and encasing them in pastry made from flour, water, olive oil and a secret ingredient: raki.