As I sit sipping my black coffee and tucking into a gourmet full English breakfast, the speeding train emerges through the Channel Tunnel and into the lush French countryside. Squinting from the sudden change from dark to light outside, I admonish myself: ‘Why don’t I do this more often?’.
I’m en route to a long weekend in the Normandy countryside, staying at a rather special property (more of which to come), part of the Oliver’s Travels portfolio. And the reason I’m annoyed with myself is that I seldom consider taking a holiday in a country that genuinely seems to have it all – great climate; amazing cuisine; beautiful architecture; and world-famous art. And best of all, it’s all on our doorstep.
I’ve ditched the plane for the "slow travel" option of Eurostar, although that seems an inaccurate description as we zip towards Paris at speeds of up to 180mph. I feel good about it too, as these huge trains (a quarter of a mile long and carrying twice the number of passengers as a jumbo jet) are a much more sustainable option, producing 90% fewer carbon emissions than flying.
Plus, with a considerably less stressful check-in and security process and a generous baggage allowance with no weight restrictions, I’m feeling none of my "airport angst" as a waiter refills my coffee cup on his way past.
As we roll into Gare Du Nord, it’s only taken a shade over two hours from St Pancras to the centre of Paris, and we’re met by our driver who will take us on the next part of our adventure, a two-hour drive into the heart of the Normandy countryside (local train services are available, too, but time constraints mean road is the best option for our group on this occasion).
French elegance
On the way, we pass countless picture-postcard small towns, with their tabacs, boulangeries and boucheries thronging with customers, and then, as we follow a country lane into an unassuming gateway, our accommodation looms into view.
There’s an audible gasp as our group witnesses Chateau Lazuline for the first time, a classic French country property with twin turrets, white exterior and windows with pastel-blue shutters set in 10 acres of beautiful gardens. At nearly 400 years old (the original building dates from 1635) the chateau, naturally, has some characterful idiosyncrasies befitting such a long history, but it’s also been regularly redesigned and modernised, even featuring on a cover of Elle Decoration.
Indeed, its previous owner was a renowned New York interior designer, whose influence can be seen in the beautiful silk handprinted De Gournay wallpaper in the dining room and the stylish La Cornue kitchen in the new conservatory which adjoins the original kitchen/pantry area.
Offered by Oliver’s Travels on a weekly, full buyout basis, this stunning property is perfect for a multigenerational getaway or a special occasion holiday, accommodating up to 12 people over two floors in its two ensuite master bedrooms, two double bedrooms and two twin rooms plus a shower/bathroom on each floor.
Downstairs, in addition to the conservatory and dining room, there’s ample room to entertain or just lose yourself in a book for a couple of hours in the huge living room with original fireplace. In fact, it would take a day to fully navigate this grand chateau, and kids especially would have a ball exploring its countless nooks and crannies.
They would also love the impressive six-metre x 13-metre outdoor heated pool, set amid beautiful Spanish tiles and surrounded by plentiful sun loungers, a huge glass table and dining chairs. As I relax here, glass of champagne in hand, taking in the last of the evening sunshine, it’s not long before I’m summoned inside to witness something equally spectacular.
Haute cuisine
Chateau Lazuline is self-catering, but somewhere this special merits an elevated dining experience.
As I enter the kitchen, preparations for the evening meal are well under way, and the good news is it’s being handled by a professional. Michelin-starred chef Frederic Poyer, owner of L’Amandier restaurant in nearby Bourg Achard, talks us through the three-course menu as he expertly slices and chops fresh local ingredients.
It’s incredible to see a master of his trade at work, and Frederic is unflappable as he conjures up a shrimp and prawn coleslaw salad to start, followed by a veal filet a la Normandie and an apricot almond pastry. It’s a sumptuous meal, and here’s the best part – Frederic also tidies up and loads the dishwasher ...
It’s one of a selection of experiences that Oliver’s Travels’ concierge team can organise for clients, some of which can be purchased ahead of the trip and some (like this one) that are payable locally. The team can also arrange for a local baker to deliver bread and croissants for breakfast or stock the fridge, removing every layer of stress from a client’s stay at the chateau.
A new direction
It would be tempting to spend all your time here, lounging by the pool, walking the beautiful grounds or simply taking some time to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of normal life, but there’s so much to discover in this diverse region.
Chateau Lazuline (and neighbouring four-bedroom sister property, Farmhouse Lazuline) is situated within easy reach of some of Normandy’s most popular destinations, including chic seaside resort Deauville, the quaint harbour town of Honfleur and the stunning white cliffs of Entretat, but it’s to the historic city of Rouen that we head, just a 40-minute drive away. It’s the epicentre of the region’s cultural and gastronomic scenes, and we’re met by Yannick Bugeon, of the Rouen Tourist Board, guide for a whistlestop tour of Normandy’s capital.
The city is inextricably linked with the story of Joan of Arc (she was found guilty of heresy and burned at the stake here in the 15th century) and has the largest collection of impressionist art outside of Paris, but it’s the food and drink of the area that Yannick wants to showcase on our visit.
As we meander through the narrow streets, we stop off at the popular Ma Boulangerie to sample mirliton, a delicious almond tart, before marvelling at the 176 varieties of cheese on offer at Maison Jollit in the old market. Visitors can book tours like this and many others, from architectural walks to literary histories (visitrouen.com, prices range from €7-€26pp).
A bientot
Back at the chateau on our final evening, we’re spoilt with our second chef-prepared three-course meal, this time courtesy of DineIndulge (another service available via the concierge team) before enjoying a final glass of champagne and a blissful sleep.
The next day, as the Eurostar thunders through the Channel Tunnel on its journey back to London, I ponder on the sights, sounds and tastes of the past few days and draw up a mental list. Spectacular accommodation, tick; cordon bleu cuisine, tick; great location for day trips, tick. It’s made me realise that you don’t need to go to the ends of the earth for the perfect getaway – sometimes it’s a lot closer to home than you think.
How to book it
Weekly rates for Chateau Lazuline start from £9,589 (maximum 12 people); weekly rates for Farmhouse Lazuline start from £3,339 (maximum 8 people) with Oliver’s Travels – the concierge team can arrange services such as maid service, private chef/catering, pre-stocked fridge and day trip itineraries at additional cost.
Eurostar offers return standard class tickets from London to Paris from £78pp. Local train services from Paris to Rouen are available from €9pp for a one-way ticket.
