Sweet incense wafts across the car park. But I can’t figure out where it’s coming from. I’m squinting into the sun, standing in a clearing in the forest atop an extinct volcano – now a vast tarmacked expanse to accommodate the cars of those here to worship. Towering 33 metres above me is a statue of the goddess Durga Maa, each of her eight arms holding a different weapon, from a giant sword to a trident. For a moment I’m lost, looking into the rather adorable, slightly wonky face of her giant, golden accompanying lion.

Located in the Indian Ocean, some 1,200 miles off the south-east coast of Africa, Mauritius remains a diverse and rich mixture of culture, ethnicities, language and faiths. The Portuguese, Dutch, French and British have all claimed these islands over time, importing enslaved people and indentured workers from Africa and India to work the sugar cane plantations. It claimed independence in 1968.

Here, besides the crater lake of Grand Bassin, a good 550 metres above sea level, lies one of the most sacred Hindu sites on the island. In fact, my visit coincides with Navratri, a festival that honours the goddess Durga and – among the devoted who come to pray and place offerings of flowers, candles and fruit besides the smaller statues of various gods, laid out at the temple beside the water – is a gaggle of tourists. As a tinny tannoy projects chants and songs over the loud din of birdsong, we all weave our way silently through the sweet, charred cinnamon of the burning incense, and take in the beauty before us.

This is the first full tourist season in Mauritius since Covid, with the country only having opened its borders to international travel in October 2021. As of 1 July, visitors no longer have to test or self-isolate on arrival, and visitor numbers look set to rise again.

“Covid has been a difficult time for hoteliers, especially here in Mauritius where we were closed for such a long time,” says Amanda Darmalingum, revenue and reservations manager at The Residence Mauritius by Cenizaro, where I’m settled in for my stay on the island.

Like many properties here, the hotel took the long closure during Covid as an opportunity to refurb and refresh, she says. One of the first things you notice when arriving at this 135-room, 28-suite resort on the island’s east coast, is its towering three-storey vaulted central lobby. Its new dark-wood furniture is a tasteful contrast to the bright white space, flooded with light from either side where it is open to the elements; mountains and sugar cane fields on one side and pools and the ocean on the other. The whole space was given a refit during lockdown, as was the large poolside bar area, another hub of the hotel.

Demand at the property is back to its pre-Covid levels, says Darmalingum, though guests are still hesitant to book far in advance, she adds, due to Covid concerns. The UK remains the hotel’s biggest international market, with repeat bookings common. And though I spot some couples in their 20s posing for obligatory Instagram shots besides the neon white sands, towering palm trees and impossibly blue ocean, the main customer base is the over-30s, with the average stay seven nights.

“I’d say we are family-style,” adds Darmalingum. “Our staff have been here a long time, and the guests love the continuity and the friendliness and hospitality that provides.”

From the bar, the main buffet-style restaurant, to the beachside a la carte restaurant, The Plantation, the personal touch is impressively obvious as staff remember individual preferences from drinks choices to allergies and intolerances from the get-go.

Indeed, food is a big part of The Residence’s offer. Happily for me, one way to truly know a culture is through its food. Blending Indian, East African, and European influences, the staples of Creole cuisine include rougaille, a sauce of crushed tomatoes, onions, garlic and thyme, and various curries.

“We take international influences, but our food here always has the local touch,” says chef Ranish Jayada as he leads us through the kitchen gardens, where herbs, fruits and vegetables used across the restaurants, bar and spa are grown. For €60pp, guests can discover the essentials of Mauritian cuisine, with a cookery class hosted by Ranish in the gardens. During my session with him, we rustled up a chicken curry, accompanying paratha flatbread and a palm heart salad.

Guests who book the all-inclusive or half-board options at the resort have a credit of MUR1,600 (around £30) per person, per night, that can be used for dinner at The Plantation – don’t miss lobster night on Sundays. For those who really want to push the boat out, a 15-course tasting menu – a tour de force through chef’s repertoire of Mauritian flavours and traditional dishes with an upscale spin – is an additional MUR8,500 (around £160) per person.

With candles set in the sand and flowers adorning the table, I valiantly tackled street-food-style fritters, crab bouillon, octopus salad and lobster curry and, to finish, a rum-infused sorbet served in an ice teardrop. It was exceptional but a lie-down felt imperative afterwards… This November, the property is also set to add a new small-plates restaurant on the beach to offer guests an additional, more casual dining option.

Spa attraction

Located in the basement, the sprawling Sanctuary Spa is a ylang ylang-scented den of relaxation. An illuminated pebble path leads to a treatment room for couples. Though there’s dry body brushing with coconut husks and a gold-infused firming facial among the signature treatments, I opt for a massage using Japanese reiki techniques to rebalance the body’s energies. All I can manage after that is another lie-down by the mile-long stretch of beach.

When it comes to rooms, the most premium options on offer have a direct sea view. Though whether it’s partially hidden behind palms for rooms set further back, or a case of looking sideways for rooms perpendicular to the shoreline, most rooms have a glimpse of the sea.

A butler service comes as standard with all categories. Upon check-in, mine arrives to offer an unpacking service and show me the features of my palatial 106-square-metre garden view senior suite. In a minimal colour palette of cream, dark wood, and stone, beyond the living room, large balcony with two sunbeds, and relaxing shuttered bedroom, the real star is the expansive marble dressing room with separate shower, soaking tub, vanity and several wardrobes.

Water sports too are complimentary – perfect for making the most of the calm, shallow waters of the lagoon, created by the halo reef that surrounds the island, via paddleboarding, kayaking, snorkelling, sailing lessons and waterskiing. Or if you’re feeling lazy, you can sail on a glass-bottomed boat to view the intricate corals that fill the bay. Morning yoga too, can be booked for free.

Though Mauritius is, of course, known for its beaches, you can’t visit without heading up into the mountains. A day trip booked through the concierge costs €115, with an additional €30 for a picnic. Known as one of the most biodiverse places on earth, the island’s south is its wilder, most preserved side. I climbed to the lookout point over the spectacular Black River Gorges national park, where crumpled, forest-covered mountains drop down to the sea as white-tailed tropicbirds glided above.

Chamarel Geopark – with its ebony forest, 100-metre-high waterfall and seven-colour sand dunes, which range from vivid purple to pink and blue – is also a popular stop. Stepping away from the beach and into the forest feels worth it. And from the growing numbers of other tourists that arrived as I explored the wilderness, it’s clear Mauritius’s unique charms are already drawing visitors back.