The Greeks have a word for it – ‘philoxenia,’ which, though loosely translated as hospitality, actually describes a way of welcoming and making ‘xenous’ (strangers, or guests) feel valued that far exceeds the normal meet and greet.

Like other intangibles, people don’t know it until they see it, but once they do, they’ll never forget it. And St Nicolas Bay Resort, a five-star, architect-owned resort in Crete, is one of the best introductions to philoxenia you could hope to have.

Located on a cliff between the cosmopolitan harbour town of Agios Nikolaos and the pretty fishing village of Elounda, and overlooking the sparkling waters of Marbello Bay, this beautifully landscaped low-rise complex of white-washed buildings is modelled on a Greek village that exists only in dreams.

There are 119 immaculate and spacious rooms in more than two dozen categories, including 14 new Olive & Sea Suites which have just been completed and are perfect for families, as they sleep up to four people and have private pools. Also appealing to families is a new outdoor children’s nature area, designed as a ‘nature sanctuary’ with little huts among lemon and olive trees.

Among the myriad options are seven private villas with pools and one Studio Villa at Thalassa Villas. Most of the rooms are sea-facing, allowing for sublime moments of tranquillity at the start and end of each day. In between one and the other, guests can fill their days with activity, both on and off the property.

While at the hotel, they can follow winding cobbled paths down to a small beach, pausing to enjoy the vegetable and flower gardens, verdant carob, olive and citrus trees, and to have a browse in the art gallery, boutique, or tiny, icon-filled church. This sits on a delightful terrace, just by the Greek Kafeneion, one of the hotel’s five restaurants, which offer a wide range of international menus and use seasonal, locally grown supplies, as well as herbs and vegetables grown in the hotel gardens.

At Kafeneion the emphasis is on traditional Cretan cuisine. Diners can enjoy the most delectable mezes while listening to live music. For excellent sushi and other Asian-with-a-twist options there’s Minotaure, while Labyrinthos specialises in creating individual five-course menus for guests. Vegetarians and vegans needn’t worry: all the restaurants offer a wide range of inventive choices for them, too; the courgette fritters were the best I have I ever tasted.

The Poseidon Spa complex features a traditional gym and a newly opened, semi open-air space with blissfully quiet areas for complimentary daily yoga and Pilates. Adjacent to this is the third of the hotel’s main pools – another new addition to the resort for this season – with a spectacular backdrop of Aghios Nikolaos town and the island’s rugged mountains. At 25 metres long and adults-only, it’s perfect for lap swimmers.

Out and about 

The hotel is a holiday in itself – but Crete is an island rich in culture, history and beauty, and there is so much to see within easy reach of the St Nicolas Bay Resort. Among the most famous – world-famous, in fact – sites are Bronze Age Knossos Palace, and Spinalonga island, which, despite a fascinating past as a Venetian fortress and Ottoman colony, is best known for housing Greece’s lepers from 1903 to 1957.

For nature-lovers there are many terrific hikes, including through Kritsa gorge. It’s challenging in parts, slicing through a mountain and taking walkers over unstable rocky ground, but it rewards with views that seem to last into infinity.

Crete is also known for its superb wines, and the hour’s drive to the Boutari Winery, on the Scalarea Estate, is well worth it for the excellent Genuine Experience wine-tasting and food-pairing lesson. My group had Kallia Roump, a brilliant communicator who shared her expertise with contagious enthusiasm. We felt the warmth of the sun, the wine and, above all, the philoxenia.

How to book it 

St Nicolas Bay Resort is 60km east of Heraklion Airport, and is a member of Small Luxury Hotels, with rooms from around £230 per night. Inspiring Travel offers seven nights from £1,919 per person (based on two adults sharing a Classic Double Room, limited sea view) on half board, including flights from Gatwick and private transfers (price based on 20 September 2023 departure and valid for travel completed between 19 September and 2 October 2023).