It’s not the start I’d envisaged to my weekend getaway as I swap the cool, wet and windy British weather for… cool, wet and windy Spanish weather.

Understandably, locals are celebrating the return of rain after a dry spell that has seen restrictions on water use enforced in the area but I am fretting that it might put a literal dampener on my weekend. And things aren’t looking too promising as the rain continues to lash against the car on the 50-minute drive south from Malaga airport past Fuengirola, Marbella and Estepona before a sharp right up into the hills around the small settlement of Casares.

But then, like a beacon in the gloom, comes the first sight of Finca Cortesin, my home for the next two nights and one of the most sought-after resorts in the area.

The hotel, with its 67 suites, is built around two courtyards on a huge 532-acre estate set in the rolling hills between Marbella and Sotogrande, with the imposing Casares Mountains to one side and uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean coastline to the other. Designed by Roger Torras and Ignacio Sierra, the buildings are inspired by Andalusian architecture, with whitewashed walls and manicured, landscaped gardens that give the feel of a lavish country estate.

In the spotlight

Opened in March 2009, the resort quickly became a magnet for discerning travellers thanks to its reputation for fine dining and amenities such as an award-winning spa, four swimming pools, tennis and padel courts and a beach club.

Not forgetting the 18-hole championship golf course that thrust the property into the public’s consciousness when it played host to the 2023 Solheim Cup, the biennial team competition contested by the best female professional golfers from the US and Europe.     

I’m hoping to attempt to emulate Team Europe’s trophy-winning efforts with a round on the course later during my stay but my journey first begins in the lobby, where attentive staff quickly whisk away my golf bag and luggage to my accommodation. Walking through the huge indoor courtyard, which conveniently connects guests with the hotel’s bar and main two restaurants, I’m struck by the sheer size of the place.

However, although undeniably grand in scale, Finca Cortesin manages to exude a welcoming atmosphere, thanks in part to the warm colours of the hand-painted wall coverings, terracotta floors and original carved wooden doors salvaged from European castles. This quirky, comforting palette, along with the classical busts hidden in cubby holes along the corridors, is the handiwork of interior designer Pinto Coelho, who personally sourced the antiques and period furniture for Finca Cortesin’s public areas.

The sense of understated elegance extends to the rooms – my pool suite feels decadently large, with a separate living area complete with dining table and chairs complemented by a four-seater sofa and huge flatscreen TV.

French doors from the bedroom lead out to a spacious terrace with private pool and more of those views across the Mediterranean (Finca Cortesin has its own 6,000sqm Beach Club, just 0.9 miles from the hotel, with Balinese beds and loungers around a 35-metre infinity pool).

With the rain still falling it’s maybe not the time for a dip anywhere, and while it’s tempting to just relax in the room with a coffee and a treat, on my two-night flying visit the schedule is full, so I drag myself from the comfort of my suite to explore what else the property has to offer.

The full treatment 

Given the weather conditions, the spa makes for the natural next port of call, and after donning my Finca Cortesin-crested robe and slippers, I make my way down to the 25-metre indoor pool, with its floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking manicured lawns and gardens. Opposite the windows, floor-to-ceiling mirrors run alongside the whole length of the pool, creating a unique visual effect as you make your way to the steam room, sauna and showers at the end of the walkway. 

As you’d expect, there’s a comprehensive menu of treatments available in any of the 10 rooms featuring heated floors and massage beds, plus a double suite with its own Roman bath for couples wanting to indulge in some pampering.

Alongside the sauna, steam room and plunge pool, Finca Cortesin also boasts Spain’s very first “snow cave”, accessed by what looks a little like a freezer door, where guests can experience a rapid cooldown by rubbing themselves with man-made snow-like slush that cascades from various points around the room.

Tastefully done

Fine dining is another big draw for the resort, not only for guests but for the locals who flock here to sample the best of regional and international cuisine. Options include El Jardin De Lutz, where chef Lutz Bosing combines classic Spanish dishes with modern concepts, and Don Giovanni under Sicilian chef Andrea Tumbarello, as well as a restaurant at the clubhouse. 

But I’m lucky enough to get a table at signature restaurant Rei, which serves authentic Japanese dishes alongside Asian-fusion options. Having experienced rather disappointing attempts at this genre at other five-star hotels across Europe, where in my opinion chefs have tried too hard to introduce unnecessary and incongruous quirks to Asian classics, my expectations aren’t incredibly high.

However, to say chef Luis Olarra and team have nailed the experience is an understatement. 

I sample a 14-course (yes, 14…) taster menu which manages to give an Andalusian twist to traditional Japanese staples, with all produce sourced locally in line with the hotel’s ‘zero-km’ ethos, from sustainable fisheries in the local straits, to organic produce from its own vegetable garden.

From grilled Iberian pork marinated in soya, served with a red fruit teriyaki, to wild red tuna with wasabi and truffle, and an astonishing eel concoction encased in fondant, the hits keep on coming. It’s less a meal than an elaborate choreography as waiters buzz around the table explaining the provenance and flavours of the upcoming dishes, in tandem with the knowledgeable sommelier suggesting the perfect local wine or sherry to accompany various stages of this incredible culinary adventure.

At €140 per person (excluding drinks) it’s an unmissable experience: clients will want to know why you haven’t insisted they book a table pre-trip if they can’t get a reservation when they visit.

Suitably sated, on the way back to my suite, I can’t resist a detour to the cosy Blue Bar, where I sink into one of the plush sofas to enjoy a nightcap while preparing myself mentally for the challenge that awaits me the next day.

Par excellence

As an avid, yet unpredictable, golfer, my emotions before tackling the tough championship course at Finca Cortesin consisted of 70% excitement and 30% dread – if it was a challenge for the world’s best female players at last year’s Solheim Cup, what would it do to an amateur like me?

Fortunately, any nerves are calmed by the quality of the service and facilities on offer: golf bag drop-off and club cleaning service; complementary balls at the impressive practice range; and hi-tech golf buggy with course sat nav, cooler for water bottles, ball and club cleaner, tees and pitch mark repairer. There’s even an onboard app from which you can order food (extra charges apply) to be delivered to your buggy mid-round.

An experience like this doesn’t come cheap (low-season green fees start from €320, including the above services) but to most golfers the chance to play on iconic holes on one of Europe’s best courses would justify the outlay.   

Later that afternoon, contemplating my round in the final few hours of my visit – and sitting in the now searing heat of my suite terrace – I reflect on how, like the weather, my expectations have changed over the last 48 hours. I arrived at Finca Cortesin focused on its iconic golf course but left wishing I could stay longer to sample much more of the amazing food and facilities on offer at this stylish Spanish hideaway.

How to book it        

Abercrombie & Kent offers two nights at Finca Cortesin from £1,370pp in a Junior Suite on a B&B basis, and including flights from Gatwick and transfers (based on two sharing).