At first sight, there’s something a little temporary looking about Reykjavik – it even reminds me of Los Alamos, the make-shift town New Mexico that became famous as the nuclear bomb’s first testing site, and was so well depicted in Christopher Nolan’s Oppenheimer.

But while Iceland’s capital may give off a fleeting aura, it was officially founded more than two centuries ago, in 1786. And as my weekend goes on, and the more I explore Reykjavik, the more I understand why it’s become one of Europe’s permanent favourite tourist hotspots, bursting with culture, a vibrant night scene and offering up a perfect combination of city and nature.

My experience of the country’s largest city starts on a Saturday afternoon, following a very comfortable flight from Stansted on one of Iceland Play’s Airbus A320neos, then I head for the city’s only true five-star hotel, the Reykjavik Edition. Designed in partnership with local architecture firm, T.ark, and New York-based studio, Roman and Williams, it was created under the guidance of the legendary hotelier, Ian Schrager.

Opened in 2021, this also marked Marriott’s debut in the country, and the Reykjavik Edition certainly landed with impact, sitting in front of the landmark concert hall and conference centre Harpa and nudging alongside the vibrant shopping district of Laugavegur Street.

The hotel delivers on many fronts, offering a spa, conference centre, and even a nightclub, Sunset, along with 253 guest rooms and suites spread across five floors. Some rooms have their own outdoor terraces, while the majority have their beds facing floor-to-ceiling windows to make the most of the views.

Following a much-needed quick power nap after the early flight, my best friend Claudia and I head down to the hotel’s crown jewel, Tides, part of an accomplished combination of dining and bar options at the hotel.

Over the past three years, the restaurant has drawn a cult following among Reykjavik’s foodies and has quickly become one of the capital’s top dining spots, earning a place in the prestigious Michelin guide.

An 80-cover restaurant, Tides uses locally-sourced ingredients to serve Argentinian-inspired plates – such as the lobster and langoustine croquettes and the Nordic salmon tataki, which my friend and I eagerly devour. We follow this with a succulent lamb fillet and some delicious lobster ravioli, before being treated to a selection of desserts – including an incredible pistachio parfait.

We wash down our incredible dinner with a bottle of Pinot Noir before heading to the hotel’s speakeasy bar Tolt, which can only be accessed with a secret code. Named after one of the five gaits of the Icelandic purebred horse, it makes for the perfect post-dinner spot, opening from 9pm to 1am on Fridays and Saturdays, and in the summer, also on Thursdays.

Sunday starts bright and early and back at Tides, which also acts as the hotel’s breakfast buffet restaurant; Tides bakery and café also offers some lighter options along with locally roasted coffee.

Fuelled up for a day’s exploration, we visit many of the city’s landmarks – Reykjavik’s main church Hallgrimskirkja; the parliament and town hall; as well as the Sun Voyager – a steel sculpture representing a Viking ship – and of course, the Harpa concert hall.

After getting lunch at Baejarins Beztu Pylsur – crowned by The Guardian in 2006 as Europe’s best hot dog stand and visited by former US president Bill Clinton – we head to Pufa, an eight-metre, grass-grown mound.

Situated in the industrial part of Reykjavik’s harbour, the art piece was designed by Icelandic visual artist Olof Nordal, who wanted to create a beacon of tranquillity and meditation amid the bustling city.

Upon realising we’ve walked 15km over the course of a few hours, we decide to head back to the hotel and treat ourselves to an afternoon at the spa. A perfect oasis of relaxation, guests can relax and recharge before a fancy dinner or a wild night out.

At the spa, they can make the most of a lounge bar with complimentary refreshments and nibbles before going into the steam room, sauna, or even the thermal plunge pool. They can also get a wide variety of treatments inspired by the Icelandic landscape, including a hot and cold stone massage, a muscle relieving body massage or a regenerating facial.

Claudia and I spend our last evening at The Roof, located on the hotel’s seventh floor with wonderful panoramic mountain and ocean views.

Sipping our Auroras – one of the bar’s staple cocktails – we bask in the Icelandic summer light and life feels good at that point. While we may have first thought Reykjavik’s architecture made it feel temporary, we now see how it leaves a permanent imprint on all who visit.

Rooms at Reykjavik Edition start from £345.