Few things are more quintessentially English than the Henley Royal Regatta, the famous boat race held every summer in this equally famous town. And now this adorable little spot has a hotel that perhaps better suits those attracted by the race, and those who seek somewhere to stay with a more discerning edge.
Perfect for a short break, The Relais Henley is a 40-room and lifestyle project that comes from hotel entrepreneur Grace Leo and is the first in the UK under her new boutique brand, Relais Retreats. The Oxfordshire market town where it’s located hugs the Thames and is surrounded by idyllic countryside, while its charming lanes are full of cute places to eat, chi-chi boutiques, antique shops and picture-perfect architecture typical of the area.
A conversion of The Red Lion, a former 16th-century coaching inn, The Relais sits right on the river but also on one of the main road arteries of the town, which is a plus and minus: it’s easy to find, but the traffic passing by can be a bit of a bore. Still, it’s easy to leave the noise behind by heading off for a stroll along the peaceful Thames, hopping on a boat trip with Hobbs of Henley’s, or going for a bite to eat in The Clipper, the hotel’s restaurant.
This dining option has been developed in partnership with Mosimann’s London and features signature dishes from the popular Belgravia restaurant, mostly made with great local produce. Three courses for £34.50 seemed good value, and my highlight was the Double Baked Tunworth Camembert Cheese Souffle: entrees included Mosimann’s Fish Cakes with sauteed spinach and parsley sauce or Seared Cannon of Lamb, homemade gnocchi “Parisienne”, with roasted butternut squash, woodland mushrooms, crispy sage and red wine jus. The afternoon tea is also a joy and can include a glass of Mosimman’s Grand Cru Brut Champagne.
Hanging on the exposed brick walls of The Clipper are nods to the boating history of the area, and from the ceiling hangs a vintage wooden dinghy on loan from Hobbs of Henley’s private collection and made locally by Shepherds, the prior custodians of The Red Lion Hotel who later sold it to the Hobbs family in 1917.
The white-walled interior of the restaurant could feel chilly in winter months, but pops of orange and botanical prints on the furniture warm things up. And when those warmer months do come, tables also spill out into a private terrace – from there you might be able to catch a glimpse of phase two of the project, where more parts of the building are set to be converted in the coming years.
Other lovely corners of the hotel include The Quarterdeck Bar, which is in the oldest part of the hotel, so original beams work well with vintage photographs of the regatta, with this cosy pub given a sleek upgrade; hotel life also spills out onto a terrace at the front.
The Deli meanwhile sees locals and guests alike come in for tasty treats such as gourmet sandwiches, pastries and coffees and there’s also a huge range of East India Company Teas for sale, while picnics for those heading out for excursions on the river are also available. The Clip Bar is another tucked-away spot and home to a wide range of gin and vodka.
The final piece of the downstairs jigsaw is an interesting concept for a provincial hotel – a co-working space with a deeply luxurious twist to it, The Palm Court. Echoes of south-east Asia filter into this long room, with Persian and Chinese rugs, planter fans, over-sized mirrors, while book-lined shelves mingle with desk working spaces.
And The Salon is the latest launch at the hotel – a private member’s club with speakers and guests coming together for conversation and debate, hosted by Grace. The salon concept gives an additional sophisticated twist to the hotel and also fits well with the town’s cultural reputation, known for hosting an excellent annual literary festival.
Taking a little boat trip up the Thames may be a slightly more warm-weather pursuit, but Henley is not just a summer destination, the river and surrounding countryside are beautiful any time of year, with mountain biking, country walks or horse riding among the suggestions to head out for in The Chiltern Hills nearby.
The rich history of the Grade II listed landmark building is well preserved and remembered, with the inn playing host to royalty and nobility over centuries.
This is evidenced in the room I stayed in – one where King Charles 1st himself also once laid his head, and his coat of arms is preserved over the fireplace in the room in an original wall fresco; it’s incredible, but I found the scale of it a little overbearing (it can just be hidden away behind a big cupboard door however). The enormous four poster also seemed incongruous in a quite small room, but the sense of history just oozes out of it, and it has a vantage point of the river.
Other famed guests over the years have included the First Duke of Marlborough who would stay here while on his way to Blenheim Palace; Grace Kelly visited during regatta in 1947; and the poet, William Shenstone, who carved a poem into a pane of glass with a diamond in 1750.
Other room options seemed airier and lighter and combined a sleek, contemporary feel with some further nods to life on the water, such as stripes inspired by traditional rowing club blazers, mixed with pretty botanical illustrations, and an eclectic selection of bespoke furnishings designed by English craftspeople.
The Relais is a stylish little hideaway that combines international know-how with English living in a charming well thought-out package, all just an hour by train from London Paddington and 30 minutes from Heathrow, and next up for Grace Leo and her co-investor Tim Hartnoll under Relais Retreats will be The Relais Cooden Beach.
This is about to emerge from a winter renovation and refurbishment programme, becoming a full-service beach resort on the East Sussex coast this spring. It was once the private home of the De La Warr family, who built a private train station just next to the property – this means guests arriving from London can literally step off the train and into the hotel.
The hotel will feature 45 rooms and suites including five new veranda rooms with private courtyards and there will also be a wellness centre with treatments by Aromatherapy Associates, as well as a new restaurant with menus influenced by seasonal and local produce, particularly locally caught fish and seafood.
