As southern Europe pants with the weight of summer tourism, the only breathing I can hear is that of 12 friendly alpacas. 

I am in a yoga session among a herd of camelids in the Austrian Alps. It’s peak holiday season, yet there’s not a hint of any of the usual summer noise you might get in crowded resorts elsewhere. The sun is soft, warming my skin without a sting, and the view of the Otztal mountains looks too idyllic to be real.

As I inhale deeply, a thought slips through my meditation: “This is the perfect summer vacation – just me, an inspiring instructor, and my furry chums”. 

The yoga is one of the many experiences offered at Das Central, a luxury alpine resort in the heart of Solden, Austria. The theory behind it is that alpacas are calming creatures, and being in their presence teaches us to trust. But if that’s not quite your client’s bag, there are plenty more activities on offer too.

Located an hour’s drive from Innsbruck airport, this Tyrolean village has been a popular ski destination for decades, with 144km of snowy slopes. There are only 15,000 tourist beds, so even in the traditional peak and shoulder seasons between October and May it’s never over-run. In the warmer months, it is quieter still, with many travellers heading to the coast for a more traditional summer holiday. 

While Das Central is best known as a ski resort (the property is just 500m from the chairlift to the slopes), it never closes even when the snow melts, being a spa hotel that prides itself on catering to luxury clients in every season, and having accumulated decades of practice since its opening in 1969.

Dining at Das Central 

Das Central has three main dining options, all of which specialise in dishes inspired by Austrian flavours and ingredients. 

Breakfast and dinner is served at the hotel’s largest restaurant, Feinspitz, as part of its half board offering. Guests won’t forget they’re in the Alps for one second; the ceilings are carved of pine wood, and large windows vitrify the mountains. The local experience comes to life, however, in the five-course set menu, which changes daily and has been designed by head chef Michael Kofler using produce from the region. 

There’s also a bountiful salad bar, as well as a dessert trolley towered by pistachio macaroons, Mozart tart and apple strudel. For a real treat, order Kaiserschmarrn, a sweet, shredded pancake that’s been a favourite with children and adults alike in Austria since the 19th century.  

For special occasions, Otztaler Stube is where it’s at. With its Tyrolean chairs and embroidered tablecloths, this traditional Austrian restaurant invites guests to experience the nation’s finest cuisine in an authentic setting. 

The tasting menu there is anchored by native seafood like crayfish and trout, while its vegetarian counterpart favours rich dairy and fresh produce, such as pecorino with tomatoes and pignoli, or courgette flower with ricotta.

For a real treat, order Kaiserschmarrn, a sweet, shredded pancake that’s been a favourite dessert in Austria since the 19th century

Otztaler Stube is also the only restaurant in Solden to have three toques by Gault&Millau, the prestigious rating system that focuses on the quality of the establishment’s food. It’s only open two days a week, however, so be sure to make reservations to avoid disappointment. 

Ice Q, which you’ll find on the summit of the Gaislachkogl mountain, is another culinary treasure owned by Das Central that guests simply can’t miss out on.

Situated at more than 3,000ft above sea level, this glass box eatery has earned a reputation as one of the region’s most breathtaking restaurants since its opening in 2012. Guests can savour wiener schnitzel and Sacher cake while enjoying the alpine scenery.

For those who don’t want to brave the altitude but still crave the views, suggest heading to the new Summit Bistro and Bar on the hotel’s fifth floor. Located next to the new spa, this modern lounge serves up refreshments with unobstructed views of the mountains and river. The terrace, with its modular sofa and infinity pool, is a nice bonus. 

And so to bed 

Das Central offers 125 rooms across multiple categories, from single room Grand-Lit with half balconies and mountain views that are perfect for solo travellers, up to the range of 19 suites that include penthouses housing up to five guests. 

It’s Das Central’s wellness suites, however, which really seem to flex its luxury know-how. All have been designed with the guests’ mental and physical health in mind, offering features such as Finnish saunas, grand fireplaces and hiking backpacks. 

I was fortunate enough to stay in the Wellness suite Soldenkogl, which starts at €600 a night. 

A reception with a Crittall door and ample storage space gives way to a cosy lounge, while a king-size bed with a fragranced pillow menu (on request) promises a newborn quality sleep. If that’s not enough to get you dozing, leave balcony doors open – the shush of the Inn river is the perfect lullaby.

Bathrooms at Das Central are another chance to make the mundane luxury. Guests can freshen up with Valentina and Philippa products in the massive shower, or relax in the deep-soaking tub while listening to the built-in radio. 

The star of the Wellness suite Soldenkogl, however, is its private sauna. I am told by Das Central’s managing director, Michael Waschl, that this addition was inspired by surplus space on the balcony. The extra square metres were the perfect size for a facility like a sauna, and thus, the ‘spa-loggia’ came to be. Unwind in the dry heat to the sight of river views, before retreating to the adjacent cushioned nook for a cooldown. 

For clients who want more space, there’s no better option than the Presidential suite. Spread across two floors, this apartment includes two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen with a wine-stocked refrigerator, a dining room, living room with open fireplace and grand piano, and even a library. 

Upstairs, guests will find a private spa with a Finnish sauna, steam bath, outdoor whirlpool, fitness room and a wraparound rooftop terrace overlooking the mountains. There’s also a free-standing Antonio Lupi bathtub in the master bedroom, in case you needed another reason to tempt clients with.

An inspiring spa  

If you’re not staying in one of Das Central’s wellness suites, there are still plenty of pampering options across its two impressive spas. 

Situated in the basement of the hotel, this Venetian-themed space is a warren of thermal suites, with nine saunas, an ice grotto, and a brine steam bath. It will also soon introduce a cryotherapy room, in response to the growing demand for cold water treatments. 

Das Central also recently opened its Summit Spa, bringing to reality the hotel owner’s dream of creating a “spa experience high above the roofs of Solden”. 

The updated Summit Spa menu offers an extensive list of treatments, including Amar Fati, a hot stone back massage featuring a mountain arnica wrap, and the Thalasso of Pacific, a sea salt body scrub. 

This modern space, which is also open to children, includes an outdoor jacuzzi, a cold plunge pool, a steam bath and two newly-built saunas.

But the highlight is the striking 17-metre cantilevered glass-bottomed infinity pool; with such a ‘suspended in mid-air’ feature, it makes swimming breaststroke feel like a superhuman act. Following that can be a deserved chill-out moment in the Summit Relax Area, with light-flooded relaxation rooms and panoramic windows.

With such a ‘suspended in mid-air’ feature, it makes swimming breaststroke feel like a superhuman act

Wealth of experiences 

Summer at Das Central is anything but boring, with the resort offering a wealth of experiences throughout the warmer months. 

Guests receive the Otzal Summer Card from the moment they check in, allowing them to freely access cable cars, local lakes, thermal baths and swimming pools, museums and mini golf.

It also covers one day pass to Area47, an outdoor adventure park about a 45-minute drive from the hotel. Here guests can enjoy a catalogue of water sports, including river rafting, canyoning, wakeboarding, and water skiing, as well as a high-ropes course, a climbing tower and a bike park. There’s also a water park with three slides, a diving tower, a cannonball, an aqua boulder wall and a slack line. Kids will delight in the Splash Track, an inflatable obstacle course which challenges participants to complete without falling into the lake. 

Back at the hotel, along with its recently introduced alpaca yoga, Das Central’s weekly programme also includes guided two-hour-long hikes with these friendly creatures. 

I leave Das Central after three days, feeling better than I have from any past sun vacation or city break. As I prepare to board at Innsbruck airport, which is almost as quiet as the hotel, I open my Instagram to find a weary selfie post from a friend. 

“I need a holiday from my holiday,” she captions it, clearly jet lagged from her month-long transatlantic trip. I double tap in support, and then scroll straight to the comment section to reply: “I know just the place.”

How to book it: Das Central Hotel, Solden, Austria offers double rooms from €170 per night, based on two people sharing on a half-board basis.