A cocktail strainer, butter dish lid, broken glass, charred bolts and serving spoons. I spend some minutes identifying the components of a striking artwork curving along the wall outside the spa at Southern Ocean Lodge.

The spa is new, but then, so is everything. The property only reopened in December, following a long-anticipated rebuild, its first incarnation having been destroyed in the winter 2019/20 wildfires which burned almost half of South Australia’s Kangaroo Island. The artwork I’m admiring, by local Janine MacKintosh, is comprised entirely of remnants from that first building. 

Recreated by its original architect, Southern Ocean Lodge sits again in splendid clifftop isolation, surrounded by nature reserve. The rebirth of the landscape is no less impressive. As far as the horizon, skeleton trees, left

as lonely sentinels after the fires, now protrude from a bulky carpet of green.

The dramatic main lounge with huge, curved picture windows and suspended fireplace is back at the lodge’s heart. Wild ocean views can be enjoyed with a drink from a substantial complimentary self-serve bar and, when the weather allows, from an alfresco pool nearby. A total of 23 suites snake eastward from here, their original views improved by a slight reorientation. 

The separate Baillie Pavilion is a new addition and can be booked whole with four king bedrooms and ensuite bathrooms, or as two separate suites with their own lounges, bars, feature fireplaces and terrace plunge pools. Beside the relocated three treatment room spa (book ahead), a terrace with hot and cold plunge pools is another new feature.

Wild ocean views can be enjoyed with a drink from a substantial complimentary self-serve bar

Sumptuous luxury is not the intention: keeping the view the star, the lodge has a pared-back style and muted palette. Creams sit against polished wood, though, with delight, I realise the blue cushion pattern is running kangaroos. 

In my Flinders suite I dip my electronically controlled blinds to use the enormous walk-in rainfall shower and free-standing bath. After dinner, still wired with jetlag, I nibble koala-shaped turndown chocolate on the curved seating of my sunken lounge, listening to the sea crashing below, and finally become drowsy thanks to the EcoSmart fireplace which has been lit for me.

Sumptuous luxury is not the intention: keeping the view the star, the lodge has a pared-back style

As a non-red meat eater, I’m given personalised menus at meals. Dishes are prettily presented and inventive. One evening my huge crayfish starter is followed by barramundi with blackcurrant and turnip three ways, the fish farmed by a local school. Oysters, pheasants, wild-caught fish, wine, spirits and honey also grace the extensive list of island-sourced products. The off-grid property’s sustainable approach goes further, incorporating treated rain and bore-water and solar power.

I’m free to choose my own bottle from hundreds in the complimentary walk-in red wine cellar which adjoins the restaurant. It’s typical of the relaxed vibe. Dinner dress is smart-casual and when, afterwards, I help myself to a malt whisky in the lounge, I find few others have lingered.

Guests are outdoorsy types, typically staying three or four nights. They’re right; attempting all the included excursions within two days leaves me little time to relax.

But it would be missing the point not to join the enthusiastically guided minibus tours and learn more about this nature-rich island. I visit the Seal Bay sealion colony and the rugged coastline around stalactite-edged Admiral’s Arch. I take multiple photos at the fantastically eroded Remarkable Rocks and spot feeding koalas on a nighttime walking safari.

A clifftop walk leads directly from the lodge. My guide points out high caves where ospreys nest. They’ve inspired the name of a corner suite with its own infinity pool and 270° views. Trekking onwards, we spot dolphins arcing through the waves and, under the bright blue water, a sleek sealion hunting fish.

Rising for an early departure the next morning, I catch a spectacular pink-hued sunrise over the ocean, a fitting reminder of beautiful new beginnings.

Southern Ocean Lodge is one of seven Baillie Lodges and a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia. It’s featured by operators including A&K, Audley, Carrier and Inspiring Travel.