Shaken and stirred are my emotions as I gaze in awe at the Swiss Alps from a vantage point at Burgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne, perched 500 metres above the lake’s crystal-clear waters. Stunning views apart, the property’s claim to fame is as a key location for James Bond classic, Goldfinger, the movie in which Sean Connery first uttered those three little words concerning the preparation of his Martini cocktail.
My plan is to visit three Swiss hotels over four days that are all part of the Burgenstock Collection, one which encompasses 643 rooms and 67 residence suites across the country, plus 24 rooms in the brand’s London outpost, The Adria in South Kensington.
It’s a whistle-stop tour in the truest sense, as I’ll be foregoing the usual car transfers to travel between venues on Switzerland’s extensive rail network. Due to time constraints, I flew to Geneva, but taking the train from the UK would be an attractive option for clients wanting to take a slow-travel option with a smaller carbon footprint: this can be done in as little as six-and-a-half hours from London. From the airport though, I hopped on a train (single fare approx £26) for the hour-long journey to my first port of call, Lausanne.
There are four official languages in Switzerland, and here in the canton of Vaud it’s French – and the Gallic influence is obvious in the architecture as I meander through pretty streets and tree-lined boulevards to the Royal Savoy Hotel & Spa Lausanne.
Old school charm
This art nouveau-style building dates back to 1909 and features 196 rooms and suites, a spa with indoor and outdoor heated pools plus dining options including the opulent Brasserie du Royal.
My Savoy executive room features a bijou balcony with view of Lake Geneva, and the style is a mix of old-school elegance and modern sophistication, with bathroom amenities by UK brand Aromatherapy Associates and thoughtful touches such as a desk power-charging are fitted with both British plug socket and handy USB chargers.
After settling in, it’s time for cocktails in the hotel’s Sky Lounge, with more glorious vistas across the lake and city, followed by specialities from the light bites menu and a taste of a selection of wines from the region, ahead of a very special excursion the next day.
Wine & dine
Switzerland produced one million hectolitres (22 million gallons) of wine in 2023, yet less than 2% of that figure was exported. I’d never even seen a Swiss vintage on a wine list, much less tasted one, so, accompanied by Royal Savoy’s sommelier, I set about filling the gaps in my oenological education with a visit to Domaine du Daley, a historic vineyard a 15-minute drive from the hotel.
Proprietor Cyril Severin related the history of wine in the Lavaux region, and explained where the Chasselas Villette Grand Cru I was about to sample derived its crisp, dry, full flavour. "It’s because the vines are nourished by warmth all day long," he explained. "In the morning from the rising sun; in the afternoon and evening from its reflection in the lake; then during the night by the residual heat emanating upward from the underlying bedrock."
I’m treated to a tour of the winemaking operation and cellars before sampling more vintages on the impossibly picturesque terrace overlooking the sloping vineyards that have produced this wonderful wine. It’s an enlightening excursion that can be arranged by the concierge team at the Royal Savoy and one that clients would not want to miss.
City-centre chic
As much as I’d have liked to work my way down the wine list, it’s time to leave for the next stop on my Bond mission, heading to the mountains – an hour-long train journey to the Swiss capital, Bern (approx £32), where the second property of the Burgenstock Collection, the 99-room Hotel Schweizerhof, awaits.
Just a stone’s throw from the main railway station, Hotel Schweizerhof is the perfect base to explore this pretty, compact city, which I did in the company of Beatrice from Bern Welcome, who revealed some unexpectedly breathtaking views and related the history of this medieval city as we strolled through Unesco-protected streets lined with cafes, bars, restaurants and shops.
The highlight, however, was a tour of the city’s clocktower, or Zytglogge, with privileged access to the inner workings of the main mechanism itself, a Heath Robinson-esque contraption originally built in the 1500s which still regulates the tower’s clock and the hourly parade of moving mechanical figures (bern.com, single tours from approx /£9 per person).
Back at the Schweizerhof it was time to freshen up in my spacious deluxe boutique room before enjoying dinner at Jack’s Brasserie, the hotel’s flagship restaurant and something of an institution in the city, having been established in 1911. I enjoyed a regional menu featuring seasonal dishes such as shrimps, pike perch, beef and baked ravioli, and Valais apricot.
The next day, at an all-too-brief lunch at the stunning rooftop Sky Terrace with views across Bern, it was off to the train station for the final leg of my Swiss mission.
Height of sophistication
After another short rail trip (60 minutes, approx £37), I reached my final destination. Squinting against the sunlight, I trundled my cabin bag the five-minute walk down to Lucerne dock, where a catamaran was waiting to whisk me to the undoubted highlight of my Swiss odyssey.
Everything about the Burgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne is spectacular – even the short hop from the property’s private bay in the bright red funicular, which clings to the steep cliffs as it delivers guests into the heart of the resort.
Finished in 1873, this pioneering property has undergone many changes and expansions in its 150-plus year history and today consists of the Burgenstock Hotel & Alpine Spa (211 rooms and suites comprising both the Contemporary and Heritage hotels), the Waldhotel Health & Wellbeing (137 rooms and suites), the chalet-style Taverne 1879 (12 rooms) and 17 residence suites.
I was staying in the newest hotel’s entry-level accommodation, a contemporary deluxe room, but it was a world away from basic, with its panoramic bay window and seat, sunken bath with more jaw-dropping views across Lake Lucerne, stylish furnishings and a log-effect fire that straddled the living area and the bathroom and boasted Acqua di Parma toiletries.
The resort has long been a go-to destination for celebrities – screen legend Audrey Hepburn was married here in 1954, while Sophia Loren was also a regular. But the buzz at the Burgenstock this year is all about the 60th anniversary of the filming of the Bond classic Goldfinger, when Sean Connery and crew descended on the resort for a month.
Various events are planned to celebrate the milestone, including screenings of Bond movies in the resort’s private cinema plus a Goldfinger Dinner in the Oak Grill (21/22 September, CHF 270pp/£242) with its patio overlooking the glamorous Hollywood Pool.
Alpine activities
I started my reconnaissance mission of the hotel in the stunning alpine spa, with its heated outdoor infinity pool affording Instaworthy views across Lake Lucerne and the surrounding mountains.
One benefit of having such a huge spa is that guests never feel crowded as they enjoy the multiple saunas, steam rooms, saltwater hammam floating baths and plunge pools. But as amazing as it is, the spa doesn’t define this resort – whether it’s relaxation or physical activity, there’s so much else to do in this high-altitude haven, from indoor tennis in the unique Diamond Domes or a round of golf at the nine-hole alpine course to hiking or cycling in the picture-postcard countryside.
And when it comes to haute cuisine it doesn’t get more elevated than Spices Kitchen & Terrace, part of which is suspended on an overhanging platform on the outside of the main structure of the hotel, seemingly floating above the cliffs below to give more magical views of Lucerne.
Here, the open show kitchen adds a touch of theatre to the Asian menu featuring favourites from Japan, China, Thailand and India, while other dining options at the resort include refined Persian dishes at Parisa and traditional Swiss fare at Taverne 1879. Endeavouring to source ingredients as locally as possible, the resort has long partnered with nearby producers who supply milk and cheese, while on-site hives and vineyards provide guests with alpine honey and around 250 bottles of home-grown wine per year.
It was a whirlwind few days across Switzerland for me, but alas every mission has to come to an end, and after literally finishing on a high at what was for me the jewel in the Burgenstock Collection’s crown, it was time to head back to HQ in London where M (My editor) had another assignment waiting. I just wished I could have stayed another few days in this amazing mountain hideaway, as for me it was pure double-O heaven…
