I’m sipping ginger tea as the transfer winds down the scenic roads of the Amalfi Coast, having just spent a weekend at the private home of the late Italian director Franco Zeffirelli.
The radio is playing opera music, and the view seesaws between olives and oranges, two fruits I’ve eaten in abundance over the past 48 hours. The car slows as we approach busloads of tourists, clogging up the trail to take selfies and drink limoncello. I am taken aback by the amount of people; throughout my entire stay, I hadn’t even heard the hum of a crowd, and just a few minutes’ walk from the property, is a hive of activity.
Fortunately, we weren’t about to get stung; our local driver takes a tactical detour, and once again, we have the roads to ourselves.
This is the journey of every guest leaving Treville Positano, one of the most exclusive luxury hotels in the south of Italy.
In 1961, the historic property was purchased by Zeffirelli, who wanted a retreat from his busy schedule in Rome and Florence.
The Romeo & Juliet (1968) director went on to welcome several celebrities to the house, including Elizabeth Taylor, Liza Minelli and even Coco Chanel, and used it as a space for both parties and creative gatherings.
It was sold in 2007 to local developer Giovanni Russo, who converted the residence into a luxury hotel with the blessing of Zeffirelli. Since then, Treville Positano has continued to play host to the stars, with Kate Moss, Madonna and Jennifer Lopez just a few famous names to have graced its rooms over the past decade.
The property is favoured by the elite for its secluded location in one of Italy’s most touristy regions, making it ideal for travellers who want to enjoy the Amalfi Coast away from the crowds.
Its extravagant rooms, impeccable service and mouthwatering cuisine are a plus.
A room with a view – and plenty more besides
Treville Positano may no longer be a private residence, but its DNA has clearly survived its evolution into a hotel. This is largely due to its size; the five-acre plot is home to just 16 suites across four independent houses, Villa Bianca, Villa Rosa, Villa Azzurra and Villa Tre Pini.
As a result, Treville Positano feels far more like an Italian borgo than a hotel; think cobbled paths instead of carpeted hallways, and chunky keys over stripe cards. Many of the suites are also named after a guest who once stayed at the property, make the experience feel all the more authentic.
Its top tier suite is Villa Zeffirelli, which, starting at €12,500 a night, is serving luxury with a capital L. Tucked away on the second level of the property, this majestic villa has a capacity for nine guests with its four ensuite rooms and dining and living area.
The bathrooms are sanctuaries of Carrara marble and aromatherapy candles, while the outdoor real estate includes multiple terraces and a heated plunge pool. If that wasn’t enough to wow your clients, show them the views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and Positano – they’ll be asking to book in no time.
I was fortunate enough to stay in Miramare, one of Treville Positano’s three signature junior suites. This celestial space, which dates back to 1781, exudes ‘honeymoon’ vibes with its four-poster white bed, armchair pairing and pink orchids.
The floor is laid with Vietri Sul Mare tiles, while the log fireplace wears a decadent frieze that was added by Zeffirelli himself. Guests also have access to a private terrace, which includes a cushioned alcove and picnic table with chairs.
If your clients have requested extra outdoor space, they won’t be disappointed with Villa Norma. Named after Italian opera composer Bellini’s tragic heroine, this airy hamlet features a private garden with lush vegetation and breathtaking views of the Li Galli islands. Its nautical theme is subtle with maritime motifs and sailor hues, allowing the beauty of its natural assets to take centre stage.
For clients who value extravagant interior design, the Tosca Suite is bound to impress. A king bed crowned by a dramatic gold headboard makes for a majestic sleep, while the elegant living area, with its blue and white upholstered armchairs, is the perfect spot for a morning coffee.
There is also a terrace with a plunge pool (heated, of course) that is shared with the equally regal Calla Suite. Guests in this apartment will notice the intricate tiles of the yellow and orange floor, as well as the pools of light that flood through the large windows. It is often booked alongside the neighbouring Bernstein Suite, which boasts a circular brick shower room and tropical garden with an outdoor bathtub.
Divine dining with local flair
Maestro’s Terrace proudly serves dishes anchored by the hotel’s very own produce, having signed its “game-changing” organic farming licence in 2019.
Guests can expect a seasonal menu, which ensures all ingredients are fresh and approved by chef Vincenzo Castaldo and his dedicated team.
Autumn is marked by comfort foods like pumpkin risotto and cinnamon baked apples, while summer guests can try ricotta zucchini and maltagliati with ripe tomatoes.
There are also meat and seafood options, such as spaghetti alle vongole and lamb ravioli, as well as a plethora of truffle-infused dishes – the mushroom porcini being a must-try.
All meals are served on Maestro’s vine-covered terrace, which overlooks the glittering black sea of the Amalfi Coast. The ethereal atmosphere is only enhanced by the bronze chandeliers, top table magic lanterns, and white rattan Bonacina 1889 chairs. For a moonlit tipple, guests head to the Bianca Bar to sink into Moorish sofas with a signature cocktail.
Wellness with a twist: Turkish baths and Muay Thai
With its cliffside location, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that La Traviata Spa also boasts stunning vistas of the sea.
Situated in a wrought iron glasshouse, this wellness sanctuary offers a menu of spa treatments by German aesthetics doctor, Dr. Barbara Sturm. Guests will be pampered with oils inspired by the herbs of the hotel’s garden, before being invited to refresh in the cold plunge pool or Turkish bath.
Just steps away is the outdoor fitness centre with Technogym equipment, which once again, has views so beautiful you’ll be left breathless by more than just your workout.
Guests can also avail of personal training, including Muay Thai classes from inspiring fitness coach Daniela Barba.
Having never dabbled in the martial art, I was admittedly nervous about having a one-on-one session on an early Sunday morning. But Barba, who has been competing in Muay Thai for several years now, was quick to ease my nerves – pushing me to my potential, while also respecting my limits.
By the end of the hour, I was sweaty, sore, and higher than I had been in months. Officially converted, I vowed to try the sport again, and true to my word, I have since booked into a Muay Thai class here in London. Now that’s what I call a souvenir.
From making pizza to hiking in vineyards
Tempting as it may be to stay in your villa, Treville Positano offers a number of authentic experiences to immerse guests into the Amalfian lifestyle.
Chef Castaldo’s cooking workshops will show you how to make local recipes of Neapolitan pizza and pasta, while Bianca Bar offers cocktail-making classes taught by its expert mixologist.
Treville Positano will also arrange full day boat tours for guests to Ischia and Procida and the island of Capri, while also offering complimentary boat shuttle to and from the nearby Positano pier. There are also plenty of nature trails to explore, including the Path of the Gods, a moderate 7km hike through vineyards and ancient villages, and Valle delle Ferriere, a lush valley renowned for its diverse flora and fauna.
