I’m at a party that nearly didn’t happen.
Showgirls in canary yellow feathers stand beside a cake shaped like a cruise ship.
Streamers of fairy lights and a net containing hundreds of balloons are suspended below the lilac, teal, and gold stained-glass ceiling of Crystal Serenity’s atrium.
Trays of Champagne do the rounds among guests entirely dressed in white. Crowded round the dance floor, they flow down the stairs and lean over balconies, all keen to be part of the party.
And I’m onboard to raise a glass on this celebratory sailing too – Crystal could have had a very different story, so this anniversary is worth marking.
Departing from Copenhagen, the seven-night voyage cruises to Sweden and Norway before heading back to Denmark, with some very special guests onboard.
Crystal Serenity's White Party was one of the many celebratory events on board
As a pianist tickles the gentle notes of Louis Armstrong’s What a Wonderful World – the line’s sail away song – former cruise director Gary Hunter takes the mic.
“We’re so happy that Crystal is back, aren’t you? This ship was my home for 17 years, until I retired in March 2020…you all know what happened. The staff are the heart and soul of Crystal. But without you, this wouldn’t have happened,” he tells guests. “It’s a pleasure to see so many smiling faces, so many friends. Thank you for being such loyal family members.”
A revival story
As many in the travel industry will know, Gary was of course referring to the pandemic and how not long afterwards Crystal was also almost consigned to the history books, with the line declaring bankruptcy under parent company Genting Hong Kong in 2022.
But rescue came when Abercrombie & Kent Travel Group purchased the brand and the Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony ships.
Sailings resumed in 2023 following refurbs which saw guest capacity on Serenity reduced from 1,070 to 740, and the number of staterooms down to 377 from 545. The focus is on space and service.
To Gary’s point, Crystal also managed to retain 80% of its crew post-sale, the first member of which I meet is my butler, Rodrigo.
“Ah, I see you have found the Champagne already,” he says, asking if I’ll require the daily 4pm tray of canapes delivered to the room.
Yes, yes I will. Daily fruit and 24-hour in-suite dining – including a magnificently vast breakfast menu – are also available.
Claire joined a seven-night round trip voyage from Copenhagen on Crystal Serenity
I’m too self-effacing to accept the offer of unpacking, but take note of the free pressing and dry-cleaning service (the number of items is determined by length of stay) offered as standard with the Sapphire rooms.
The biggest initial surprise for me is the sheer size of the room. It is 430 sq ft plus a balcony up to 107 sq ft, includes a walk-in wardrobe, separate living space, and a queen-size bed that can be split into twins.
The Aquamarine Veranda Suite onboard Crystal Serenity
Extra touches include Etro robes, binoculars, a tablet for reservations, a coffee machine, and a bar with wine, beers and soft drinks. The 2023 refurbishment saw the separate shower and bath removed. Pinch me. Instead, there’s a large marble shower with luxe Ortigia toiletries, which elicit a squeal from me.
Ship shape
Elsewhere on the ship, the airy Aurora spa sits on the top deck, offering extensive Elemis treatments, and even cosmetic procedures.
Free-to-use steam and saunas uniquely have a large window from which to gaze out to sea. The gym is vast with copious daily training sessions. Two tennis courts and a pool complete the sun deck.
The ship also boasts the first-ever Casino de Monte-Carlo at sea, as part of a collaboration with Monte-Carlo Societe des Bains de Mer (SBM).
On Serenity, it sits beside the moody, wood-panelled piano bar, Avenue Saloon, which became my go-to for a nightcap.
The Avenue Saloon is the ship's signature piano bar
Celebrity specials
Under the 35th anniversary programming, long-term collaborator Chef Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa is onboard. A tasting with him and his sake master is a treat for the first 100 guests to take a seat.
After slow sips, I discover I’m actually a fan of this white spirit when I’d always thought I wasn’t.
Other anniversary treats include a lecture by Tokyo-based Danish flower artist Nicolai Bergmann, lectures by past captains Egil Giske and Gulleik Svalastog, and former cruise director Gary, and performances by Broadway actress Rachel York and British entertainer James Fox.
With so much to love, it’s not surprising 60% of guests are repeat bookings.
Invited to the bridge by Captain Birger J. Vorland for sail away from our third port, Norway’s Kristiansand, I ask more.
“With our previous owners leaving their cruise empire in shambles and forcing Crystal into a very ugly bankruptcy, clearly our reputation was tarnished. It takes something special to come back from that,” he says.
“Without Manfredi Lefebvre d’Ovidio [the executive chairman of the A&K Travel Group] there would be no Crystal today. He saved Crystal Symphony from Indian ships breakers, and without him Crystal Serenity would have sailed under another name for another line.”
Fast forward and two new-build ships are also on the way. With a capacity of about 650 passengers, they’re due to come online from May 2028 and will be all-suite, including single occupancy rooms. It’s a vote of confidence for the future.
Umi Uma is Nobu's only restaurant concept at sea
Wherever you go on the ship, food is a standout feature.
Alongside the only Nobu restaurant at sea – Umi Uma – last summer Crystal opened the first Beefbar at sea, from acclaimed restaurateur Riccardo Giraudi.
It joins 20 global locations including Monaco and St Barths. Known for its prime cuts, our waiter insists we take the Ribeye Ham, a beef prosciutto with toasted panettone; heaven.
With a core US, older clientele, Crystal is trying to build international sales, particularly from the UK. It has also released its full schedule to the end of 2027; from Alaska to the South Pacific, more frequent week-long itineraries – and even some four- and five-day voyages – feature alongside longer 20 and 40-night ones, as well as a 135-night world cruise.
“In order to attract a younger demographic, you’ve got to have some shorter cruises for them to experience your product,” says hotel director, Scott Peterson.
“But for the older demographic that don’t want to come for one week, you could put five or six cruises together, so that becomes one big long cruise, like a grand voyage. We don’t run away from kids and families either – we have multigenerational guests and a really strong Junior cruisers programme.”
It’s my last afternoon, and I already know the adjustment to a lack of daily gourmet food, daily canapes, and effortlessly friendly service is going to be tough.
Afternoon tea is served daily in Palm Court on Deck 12
In the airy Palm Court I try the famous Afternoon Tea. Jackpot; today it’s entirely chocolate-themed. A pianist and violinist play Cole Porter songs, butlers in tails carry teapots atop silver trays. Again, it feels delightfully classic.
And as we depart sunny Oslo to loop back to our starting point in Copenhagen, the dulcet tones of What a Wonderful World begin to play over the PA system one last time.
Maybe the self-imposed early mornings are getting to me, but as I look out over the bow as it cuts through the glittering fjord, I well up and say aloud “That’s right Louis!” Thankfully with so much deck space, no-one saw.
Three things agents need to know about selling Crystal
- Crystal boasts almost one member of crew per guest, creating a low-density environment that makes the ship feel especially spacious
- Dining is a primary focus, with exclusives at sea including the Nobu restaurants and the first Beefbar on the ocean. One complimentary booking per specialty venue is included depending on the length of voyage. There is no evening buffet; Waterside, the main restaurant, offers a new fine dining menu every night.
- Encourage guests to prebook restaurants and excursions ahead of boarding, especially if they require private or bespoke tours.