Meandering along the white-sand beach of St Ouen’s Bay, with waves crashing against La Rocco Tower and a salty sea breeze whipping the hair from my face, it was easy to leave the worries of a family situation and the stresses of work far behind me. It’s the kind of escapism that only travel can gift, and an escapism we’ve all been denied during the pandemic.
Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands, is a perfectly shaped stepping-stone for nervous travellers keen to dip their toe into travel once more. As part of our Common Travel Area, Jersey arrivals from the UK and Ireland don’t need to worry about stringent testing requirements, visas or even packing their passport. Upon my arrival all that was required was an on-site PCR test lasting just 30 seconds, then I was free to go (although from 4 January 2022, fully vaccinated visitors – meaning those who have had three doses – won’t need to test on arrival). Within minutes I’d picked up my Hertz hire car from the airport departures lounge and was on the road ready for my island adventure.
St Ouen’s Bay is just as beautiful explored behind the wheel as it is on foot. The open road here hugs the coastline and passes historic buildings, cutesy cottages and one of the island’s best breakfast spots (see box, below).
THE WELLNESS WAY
With relaxation top of my agenda for this long weekend, I quickly realised I’d come to the right place. The Ayush Wellness Spa at Hotel de France – one of several top-class spas on the island – had me drifting off into a heavenly headspace during an hour-long, full-body Ayurvedic massage, with moisturising oils to soothe the skin.
Afterwards, I sat on a cushioned lounger in the dimly lit relaxation room, sipped on a herbal tea and basked in the feeling of my stresses melting away. This spa is also home to an infinity pool, hydrotherapy pool, hot tub, hot and cold plunge pools, a sauna and a steam room, so it’s wise to book one of the full-day spa packages (costing from £295) so visitors can make the most of the facilities.
The Atlantic Hotel, on Jersey’s west coast (above), is another perfect option for clients seeking rejuvenation, with a complex of pools and saunas in its Palm Club. I booked in for a 30-minute class with local yoga school Kalimukti, and learnt classes are often conducted on the headland at The Atlantic, incorporating the sound of the sea and the gentle coastal breezes into the session.
Mother Nature had other ideas during my visit, so the class was held indoors, and I surprised myself (being more of a HIIT bunny than a yogi) by conquering both a shoulder stand and the plough with some ease, coming away with a refreshing sense of achievement.
SOUL FOOD
While spas and yoga might nourish the body, good food soothes the soul – and Jersey is a reputable foodie hotspot, with fine-dining and high-quality local produce in abundance.
Bohemia Restaurant, in the heart of St Helier, has held a Michelin star for 17 years and is today headed up by Callum Graham of MasterChef fame. As soon as I stepped over the threshold it was clear this is a restaurant that knows how to treat its guests. Swiftly seated, I gleefully deliberated over the menu, finally deciding upon a pescatarian tasting menu (when in Jersey…), and choosing a suitable wine with the help of the effusive sommelier.
Eight luscious courses included pearl barley, apple and smoked eel risotto, sea bream tartare, and local crab with lemon panna cotta – all looking like miniature works of art. Dessert featured a trio of ice cream cones presented in a tiny ice cream cart, as well as a Valrhona Ivoire white chocolate, pistachio and raspberry dome that I could have eaten three times over.
Dining at Longueville Manor (above), where I spent my second and third nights on the island, had me in a similar state of glee.
The restaurant at this Relais & Chateaux property is a special experience, not only because diners are seated in the oldest part of the manor surrounded by decorative dark-wood panelling, but because seasonal fruits and vegetables are plated up from the hotel’s kitchen garden (there are also 24 beehives here that ensure honey is never in short supply).
I tucked into one of the restaurant’s daily specials – lobster risotto – accompanied by a 2020 Bailiwick red from the nearby La Mare Wine Estate. I only wished I was staying longer, to make my way through more of the 58-page wine list, and 5,000-bottle wine cellar.
For my nightcap I chose Longueville Manor’s award-winning signature cocktail, the Royal Monty, which is a clever concoction of Jersey’s Royal Mash vodka and an apple, lemon, honey and thyme infusion, topped with champagne. Having eaten like a queen, I returned to the Tower Suite to sleep like a princess in my three-room quarters. This suite (from £625 per night) looks out over Longueville Manor’s gorgeous gardens and its alfresco swimming pool, and it has a bathroom big enough for ballroom dancing.
