Of all the places to take clients' bookings, the Choum Tunnel in Mauritania isn’t exactly conventional.

But for travel agent Emma Sowden, this abandoned railway line has been a dream office for quite some time now.

Together with partner James, Emma – who runs Impala Adventure Travel as a Colletts Travel affiliate – is on day 30 of a two-month-long road trip from Stafford... to Senegal.

The couple will cover 16,000km as they pass through nine countries en route to their final destination Dakar, Senegal's capital.

The days are long, the terrain harsh and the weather unpredictable. Risks range from breakdowns to land mines, while fuel stations are scarce – sometimes as far as 400km apart.

To many, the journey might seem extreme. But for Emma and James, it is nothing compared with what came before.

'Huge wake-up call'

In 2023, Emma fell seriously ill and was hospitalised with a benign tumour in her head, for which she underwent major surgery. Now, having fully recovered, she is determined to "live life to the max".

James has also been in the wars; he had his colon removed in 2004 after being diagnosed with Crohn's disease and colitis. Today, he uses a stoma bag – and takes a not insignificant amount of medication.

Like Emma, these hurdles haven’t deterred James from travelling. In fact, in Emma's words, it has only served to “reignite the wanderlust” he's always had.

"It was a huge wake-up call that the time [to drive to Senegal] is now,” Emma tells TTG, explaining the trip was inspired by James's passion for the Dakar Rally. “We reorganised our lives so we can live out our travel dreams.”

Working off-grid

Already well-accustomed to working remotely, Emma has continued to manage her existing list of clients throughout the trip, and has even made several bookings since departing.

“I’ve done lots of small bookings since I’ve been away,” she says. “I’ve also done a £10,000 Maldives booking for a regular client who normally prefers adventure travel but wants a bit of winter sun.”

Emma is also working on two tailor-made trips to Africa, both valued at around £12,000, for clients who’ve been inspired by her most recent adventure.

The couple are using both eSIMs and local SIMs to stay connected, as well as Starlink internet when they're stationary in the evenings.

Sleeping soundly

A consistent sleep schedule has been essential for keeping on top of bookings, especially given the difficulty of the working conditions.

For the French and Spanish legs of the journey, the couple stayed in a mix of luxury and mid-range hotels. But since arriving in Africa, they have opted to camp. “Our sleep has been fairly good,” Emma explains. “We have a roof tent – it’s very comfortable, and the weather has been kind to us.”

The pair also prefer to remain inconspicuous, choosing to camp in “secluded spots with a natural barrier from the roads”. With the exception of the odd camel herder, they rarely see another soul once night falls.

However, the couple have had to be extra vigilant in southern Morocco and Western Sahara where the coastline is patrolled by the Royal Moroccan Navy.

"You must be prepared for guards to come and ask you questions, and potentially move you on,” Emma warns. “However, the two nights we camped along this route, we came across friendly guards who allowed us to stay.”

Weather is another factor that impacts sleep, with extreme temperatures and sudden hazards sometimes disrupting their bedtime plans. One night, the couple was forced to check into a hotel at the last minute to avoid being caught in a sandstorm.

“We have both slept through sandstorms before and they are not fun!” Emma says. “So we went to the Kasbah instead, which we have stayed in before and it's very nice.”

Staying healthy

Food and water must also be carefully provisioned, especially in light of the couple's health challenges. Emma and James stocked up on non-perishable foods before leaving the UK, prioritising items they’d struggled to buy on previous trips to North Africa.

They also replenished their supplies at a large Western supermarket before crossing into Mauritania, where they would spend eight days in “very remote” surroundings. Where possible, they shop locally to help the economy, opting mostly for fresh bread and vegetables.

On past visits to North Africa, the couple relied on Jerry cans of water for cooking and cleaning. The remote nature of this trip, however, forced them to be more tactical.

In the end, they modified their Land Rover Defender 110 with a 70-litre onboard water tank, and to stay hydrated, they use state bottles for drinking water.

Access to clean water had also been especially important for James, whose health condition requires him to maintain a strict hygiene routine. “His stoma has to be kept very clean and he needs to change his stoma bag every other day,” Emma explains.

“We have an entire crate dedicated just to his supplies – two kits of bags, wipes and medication takes up a lot of space!”

Expect the unexpected

The journey hasn’t been without its setbacks. Come the half-way stage, Emma and James’ Land Rover has already suffered a “massive” puncture after being struck by a metal shard in the Choum Tunnel while on another occasion, the engine went kaput, requiring the vehicle to be towed to the nearest town.

But there have also been special moments. They’ve seen amazing desert sunsets, slept beneath the stars and explored the Draa River. They’ve also made unlikely friends after meeting another English couple at the border between Morocco and Mauritania.

“We have been travelling with them ever since,” Emma reveals. They've even raced each other over the dunes in their Land Rovers. “It has made the experience so much more fun," she adds.

As for their plans when they reach Dakar, the couple hope to celebrate the achievement in style.

“I've organised three different luxury hotels: one in Dakar, one in a nature reserve and one on a game reserve,” Emma reveals. “I wanted to make the Senegal section a holiday within the holiday, so there is only a couple of nights camping.”

Despite the challenges they’ve faced on the road, the couple’s passion for expedition has only grown stronger. Next year, Emma plans to drive to Nord Cap with James, before flying to her bucket-list destination – Svalbard. Before that, though, it’s likely she’ll be busy reliving her Dakar adventure.

“I’ve already had enquiries about this trip,” Emma adds. “My clients want calls once we've completed the journey and we're back in the UK – so watch this space!”