How is it I’m in Greece for the sixth time and yet it’s my first visit to Athens? Like many holidaymakers, I love Greece’s islands and coastal resorts. But while Athens is usually reserved for a short break, many holidaymakers – myself included – don’t realise that the Athens Riviera stretching 40 miles south of Greece’s capital provides an excellent combination of beach holiday and city break. And what a city.

But first the beaches. The choice, from the port of Piraeus to Cape Sounion 90 minutes’ drive south, is enormous. But the area just below the upmarket suburb of Glyfada, specifically Voula, has become its own enclave of luxury urban resorts. My base is the latest outpost of the Domes collection, 91 Athens Riviera, which joins its 13 partners including the original Domes of Elounda in Crete. After officially opening in October 2024, it’s experiencing its first full season and is now one of easyJet Holidays’ five resorts along the Athens Coast, which is how the company is branding the Athens Riviera.

I know there’s something special about 91 Athens Riviera after arriving on a late flight into Athens and am ushered into the resort’s Barbarossa restaurant. As I snack on plates of superb meze – grilled octopus, calamari, sea bass carpaccio – a party of Greeks is having a whale of a time singing along to Greek pop songs after a sumptuous feast. Athenians are big fans of these urban resorts around Glyfada. “It’s our Malibu,” senior sales manager of Domes Resort, Vassilis Poravos, tells me. “It’s full of bars and restaurants. The whole south part of Athens is really blooming and developing a lot.”

A balanced resort

There’s a relaxed sophistication about 91 Athens Riviera that instantly appeals. Scattered around fragrant gardens are 28 stylish cabanas resembling geodesic domes, all with extremely comfortable beds, sitting areas and private terraces (some with plunge pools). Although there aren’t specific children’s facilities, there are two-bedroom cabanas geared towards families, and two cabanas are adapted for guests with disabilities.

In spite of road noise (guests are offered ear plugs and white-noise gadgets), there’s a sense of serenity, helped by a central lagoon surrounded by dense vegetation. Then there’s the pool beside the Soma Spa (with a gym, treatment rooms, indoor pool, sauna and hammam), and another outdoor pool with sun beds near the sandy Asteras Beach and Barbarossa. Not to mention the 10-court tennis club. As someone who enjoys some spa time, a gym session, lots of swimming and even a yoga class (held in one of the yoga domes), I found the resort struck the right balance for clients wanting somewhere that’s a bit sporty but is also a chilled-out seaside escape.

City by tram

In the midst of this Aegean idyll, Athens beckons, especially for holidaymakers who love history and culture. Clients can get into the city on a scenic seaside tram line that takes about an hour, but it’s also half an hour by car or slightly longer by bus. For my first taste of Athens, I’m on a private tour arranged by the hotel and guided by Lydia Mahero, who also suggests the tram. “It’s a beautiful way to see the coast,” she says. “It doesn’t go very fast so you will be able to see everything.” 

Lydia arranges my visit so that by the time we reach the Acropolis, we have about two hours in which to explore this extraordinary 5^th-century BC collection of temples while the late-afternoon light turns into golden hour, then sunset. For clients wanting an unforgettable experience in one of the world’s greatest ancient sites, having a knowledgeable guide putting history into context while the sky glows around them is hard to beat.

From here it’s about a 15-minute walk through buzzing streets to Makris, a classy Michelin-starred restaurant serving its own farm produce. A truncated version of its tasting menu is enough to give me a deliciously vivid flavour – the mushroom “cappuccino” and red mullet are exquisite. Booking well ahead is strongly recommended.

Riviera cruise

With all those marinas lining the coast, I can’t resist a lazy boat trip. SailBliss, which can be booked through easyjet Holidays’ collaboration with Musement, offers a blissful way of spending five hours. While skipper Alex steers us along the coast from Alimos Marina near my resort, his mate Veronika prepares a stupendous lunch of prawn linguine and Greek salad. Wine flows as the sun shines and I take a dip in that blue sea.

Later that evening, I try the well-judged fusion of Greek and sushi at one of Glyfada’s many smart coastal restaurants, Bungalow 7, only a 10-minute walk from 91 Athens Riviera. I get an even bigger taste of Athens’ food scene when I join a food tour the next morning with Alexandra Syka of Athens Walks, which can also be booked through Musement. Alex’s enthusiasm and knowledge make this a captivating way of getting a handle on a city’s heart – and its stomach.

We have authentic Greek coffee in Mokka, a visit to the meat and seafood stalls in Varvakios Agora municipal food market, a cheese tasting (much more to Greek cheese than feta) at Strougga dairy shop, spinach pastries at Creme Royale, olive oils at Dieris, honey at family-run at Melira, meze at tiny Kastello tavern and, finally, dessert of honey-drenched Greek doughnuts at Lukumades. All the while, Alex shares her tips for restaurants (Thes and Klimataria Tavern stand out) and gives me the lowdown on the neighbourhoods we’re visiting, including the arty district of Psirri.

I can see why Athenians love their seaside playground. “It’s a great alternative,” says Vassilis Poravos from Domes Resorts. “We say to travel agents and tour operators, if you don’t want to book this for a whole stay, just come for two or three nights. Or even for island hopping – clients can come here for two to three nights, then on to the islands.”

A beachfront bolthole and a city fit for the gods – an irresistible combination for the Grecophile in search of something different.

Book it: easyJet Holidays offers seven nights at the five-star 91 Athens Riviera, based on two sharing, from £2,129pp, departing Gatwick on 30 September. Price includes flights, breakfast, private transfers and 23kg checked luggage; easyjet.com/en/holidays; domesresorts.com/91athensrivieratheresort; visitgreece.gr