Have you ever spent the night alone in the woods? A jungle? A forest? The bush? I can’t think of many reasons you would, other than being lost, or conversely trying to “find yourself” on some kind of retreat. Or maybe you’re a survivalist, or an explorer…

Or perhaps you’re just the one travel writer in a group who spontaneously sticks up their hand when asked if anyone “fancies trying out a night in the treehouse” while on safari in the andBeyond Ngala Private Game Reserve. 

“Middle of nowhere” has become something of a desirable post code in a hectic and over-travelled world and Ngala itself is already the perfect antidote, but a stay in the andBeyond Ngala Treehouse takes things to the next level. Shouting “me” was a move I instantly started to regret once my mind caught up with my instinct, and we all started to discuss the logistics of it. 

Alone at last

Essentially, I was about to give up a cosy tented safari suite among my fellow travellers and friendly staff to go and spend it utterly alone in the African bush. But once committed, you have to be brave and not back down, don’t you? Plus – YOLO, as the kids say. 

And of course, this is the world of high-end safaris, so while it may be remote and off-grid, this wilderness hideout is doused in comfort, with several mod cons. No TV of course, but who needs that when you have the bush as your surround-sound, the trees around you placing you at the heart of your very own wildlife documentary, and the sparkling night sky giving you more to look at than you’ll ever find endlessly channel-hopping. The one digital concession I appreciated: a wireless Bluetooth speaker which meant I could play my favourite music at least to keep me company. 

My solo adventure had started in the afternoon, when I was driven 30 minutes from the main andBeyond Ngala camp out into the bush by Nico, the manager of the treehouse. A carpenter by trade, he’d worked at the lodge in maintenance, got front-of-house and F&B experience and had progressed to managing the treehouse. “I love looking after it,” he tells me. “I can do whatever is needed, from fixing things to serving the dinner for the guests.” 

Branching out

As we amble along on the drive, Nico tells me he has his eye set on ranger training next. “I think I would like to stay here until my pension,” he muses – with a company like andBeyond (which paid all its staff during the pandemic, even when camps were closed), I can well see that happening. 

At the end of our journey was an incredible four-level “treehouse” set within its own sandy boma – a typically African enclosure – and surrounded by fences sturdy enough to keep out any unwanted visitors, but natural enough to make you feel cocooned in the bush. 

I’d never seen anything quite like it: a striking and sturdy upended rectangle covered in criss-cross wood, it is a bit jarring here among the bush, but I guess when you’re building a treehouse in the 20th century, this is how it looks. 

It doesn’t actually sit atop trees: let’s get that clear, more among them. It’s a freestanding structure and starting from the ground up, there’s a little kitchen, dining area, full bar and wines chilling. Up the first flight of stairs is a well-appointed open-air bathroom; next up is the bedroom, enclosed in glass and with white-draped comfortable bed. Finally, at the top – a day/night bed, ‘outdoor lounge’ if you will, with another bar (chill box), table, chairs and even snacks await. 

Sleeping out

Those who are brave enough can have a bed made-up here to sleep under the stars – there is also a retractable screen if it starts to rain.

I used a genuine threat of rain to sleep in the actual bedroom, my nerve not quite strong enough to spend it completely outside. I went to bed with the sound of rain outside, and snatched several hours of contented sleep before waking to birdsong and sunlight. 

The treehouse operates off-grid with its own solar power and a radio as your only contact with HQ. After another wonderful wildlife-spotting afternoon outing into the bush, I arrived back at the treehouse with all the travel pals I was with, and together we enjoyed a swift post-drive cocktail or two (this is one of the many locations the team aims to wow guests with, by the creation of a bush ‘sundowner’ set-up in spots across the reserve). 

Then I was left alone by Nico with a delicious three-course meal of mushroom soup, fish, veg and potatoes in my billy can with a pesto dip, and some sweet treats; it’s possibly one of the most memorable meals I will ever have.  

Hopefully, guests will never need the radio; in fact I didn’t manage to make it work, which meant I was out of contact in the morning when Nico didn’t show up at the promised 6:30am to collect me. No matter, it was only an hour’s wait (he’d had car trouble), but I didn’t stress, I knew someone would come for me eventually.

I just packed up my belongings and enjoyed a cup of tea (the fridge has morning treats stashed away for breakfast too) until Nico arrived, re-joining the rest of the group for that morning’s drive, proud to have survived a night alone in the South African bush. 

How to book it

A night at andBeyond Ngala Treehouse is sold as an add-on to guest’s overall booking at andBeyond Ngala Private Game Reserve, and costs approximately £450 (10,800 ZAR).