My mum would kill me if she knew what I was doing right now.

It’s 7am on a cold November day, and I am standing barefoot in my bikini on a Scottish beach.

I am about to have my first wild swimming experience, something I’ve never been brave enough to attempt before.

Back where I’m from in Lithuania, plunging into 6°C water would be less considered as an act of courage, but rather as a surefire way to catch Weil’s disease. I had always been warned by my elders that the cold causes colds, and that staying warm was crucial to staying healthy.

So the idea that people swim in these polar waters to avoid getting sick? Now that just seems ludicrous.

Guided by British Olympic swimmer Keri-Anne Payne and wild swimmer, author and photographer Anna Deacon, I dip my toes slowly. I gasp, mildly horrified by the sting of the cold, but keep wading in.

Moments later, I am fully submerged in the North Sea – every nerve in my body is screaming and my teeth are chattering in rebellion. Yet, oddly, my mind is fully at peace.

This was my introduction to the Old Course Hotel, where wellness comes from embracing the natural world and all its benefits – some of which may not always be the most relaxing.

St Andrews, Scotland’s world-famous town and the home of golf, is known for its historic university – where the Prince and Princess of Wales first locked eyes – as well as the medieval streets that I was fortunate enough to explore.

The charming town’s history is also full of characters – none more famous than the legendary golfer, Old Tom Morris, who reportedly credited his long lifespan to daily cold plunges. These unique wellness practices and more can all be explored at the Old Course Hotel.

Rooms and suites 

Located on St Andrews’ West Sands Beach, the Old Course Hotel has been welcoming guests since 1968. There are 175 luxurious rooms available, including 35 elegant suites, accommodating everyone from solo travellers to families.

Standard guest rooms are well appointed with built-in wardrobes, flatscreen TV and all necessary amenities. 
Decor is soft yet stylish, with an interesting use of tactile materials – a reminder of Scotland’s rich heritage in the textile industry.

My Champions Old Course Room had the most comfortable king size bed and a palatial bathroom, while also offering picturesque views of the links courses and the charming town of St Andrews.

For clients seeking these vistas with more square footage, the signature suites are ideal. These spacious rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows that offer panoramic views of the Old Course, the Royal & Ancient, the town of St Andrews and the Fife coastline. If you truly want to wow your client, book them into the Penthouse Suite – only accessible via a private elevator, it is perfect for travellers who value privacy and discretion. 

Dining

The Old Course Hotel has five restaurants: Swilcan loft, where dinner is served with a sweeping view; Road Hole Restaurant; The Deck; Spa Cafe; and Rode Hole Bar, which also serves aperitif and mouth-watering burgers.

My personal favourite was the Spa Cafe’s salmon and avocado toast, which was served on fresh sourdough bread and topped with the finest black caviar. This tranquil retreat is an ideal choice after the spa, offering lighter options to complete the healing experience.

Outside you’ll find The Jigger Inn, a cosy pub which was the stationmaster’s lodge back in the 1850s. 
Today, The Jigger Inn serves home-cooked dishes and a superb selection of Scottish beers, including its very own ale. The vibe is equally wholesome; think stone walls covered in golf memorabilia, intimate booths with low bar stools and a crackling open-hearth fire beneath a classic grandfather’s clock. 

Wellness

Wellness is where the Old Course Hotel truly shines.

Their recently refurbished Kohler Waters Spa offers the most advanced contrast therapy experience – alternating between hot and cold to promote optimal healing – anchored by a stunning new KLAFS-designed snow and sauna cabin.

There is also an ever-growing programme of holistic treatments available for clients wanting a more immersive experience, including yoga classes and, my personal favourite, floating sound baths.

One of the main benefits of this meditative ritual is stress reduction, with the gentle vibrations of sound instruments claimed to calm the nervous system. Having dozed off in about 15 minutes, I can confidently attest to that.

Another highlight was the Espuro Foam Steam Room – the UK’s first innovative, skin-pampering ritual where guests are cocooned in fragrant, plant-based foam. This 15-minute complimentary treatment runs three times a day and is available in both male and female changing rooms with no pre-booking required.

Other treatments include results-focused facials, restorative rituals, personalised beauty therapies and soothing massages. The latter will leave you feeling reborn, as if stress was never part of your vocabulary. Every treatment is completed with a peaceful visit to the relaxation room – a quiet sanctuary to fully surrender to the experience.

The verdict

If you’re reading this, mum, it has officially been a month since my North Sea endeavour, and it’s safe to say I haven’t had a cold since.

In fact, my recent move to Brighton brings me even closer to the coast, making it all the more easy to introduce wild swimming into my daily routine.

And with the annual Brighton Christmas Day Swim set to take place in just a few weeks, I might just join the cold-water cult. Watch this space…