Jersey reveals its WWII secrets

The best way to do that is by bike, which we source through Puffin Bike Hire. My friend and I even take advantage of the quiet, traffic-sparse country lanes to cycle two abreast, which we just learnt would have landed us in trouble with the Germans.

It’s not a completely flat island and we run out of steam on a few hills. But I can vouch for a flat stretch of seafront promenade on the south between St Aubin and the far side of St Helier. Jersey measures nine miles from east to west and five miles from north to south – we set off from the War Tunnels, which are just inland from the south coast, and less than an hour later, we are surveying the dramatic coastline of the parish of St John in the north. The ride takes us along quiet country lanes, past green fields and farmhouses, and being on the bikes allows us to take deep breaths of fresh air and enjoy the sounds of the countryside, from bird song to tractors.

We’re pleased we made the effort to cross the island, as Jersey’s north and south coasts are strikingly different. The north has rocky cliffs that plunge into the swirling sea, while the south has great swathes of sand that are laid bare at low tide. Jersey’s tides are among the highest in the world – at low tide the water can roll back as far as 40ft and the island grows by a fifth.

These tides create a watery wilderness, like the craggy surface of the moon. Perfect for moonwalking and rock pooling... but you need to keep one eye on the approaching tides – it would be easy to get distracted and end up stranded on the “moon”.

We are staying at L’Horizon Hotel & Spa, which has its own views of the disappearing sea. This Handpicked Hotel sits on St Brelade’s Bay, which often takes top billing as the island’s best beach. The bay curves round in a gentle arc, and the sand is flat and squeaky clean. The sight of other swimmers taking the plunge convinces us a pre-breakfast dip in the sea would be a great idea. In summer maybe, but this is October.

I last five minutes and no amount of furious doggy paddling convinces me the water will ever feel less than chilling to the bone. Still, it’s one way to work up an appetite for breakfast, and L’Horizon has a hearty buffet and a la carte spread to reward my moment of insanity.

There are more comfortable ways to relax in the hotel when it’s not beach weather. It has an indoor swimming pool, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, and a spa offering massages, facials and nail treatments. Other selling points for L’Horizon are its proximity to Jersey’s airport, which is less than four miles away – we’re all checked in 30 minutes after landing – and the staff who take every care to look after us.

My visit coincides with Tennerfest, an annual dining promotion that offers a range of deals at restaurants across the Channel Islands, so the temptation to sample some alternative eateries is too great, given the dominance of high-quality, locally sourced ingredients on island menus. Salty Dog Bar & Bistro in St Aubin was excellent and needed booking for a Saturday night.

L’Horizon has its own fine dining restaurant, The Grill, for those who want to eat closer to home. We don’t make it there, but we do have the afternoon tea. It’s a sumptuous banquet of sandwiches, scones and cakes, and when we order champagne too, it feels only right to make a point of toasting the brave men and women who endured the German occupation.