I’m definitely not supposed to be travelling backwards. Especially since I just passed a speedometer saying I’m sliding at 16mph and my fellow thrill seekers are hurtling down the icy slope towards me with grins on their faces stretching from ear to ear. Tobogganing is simple enough until you encounter a bend, when it’s imperative you dig one heel into the ground and the opposite bum cheek into the sledge to make a turn. Not doing so will often result in my current predicament, which has conjured a few laughs and a mildly concerned look from our Outdoor Butler, Aleksandra.
She’s accompanied us from St Moritz’s Carlton Hotel to the Preda-Bergun toboggan run and luckily her worry is fleeting; I successfully spin 180 degrees and continue my swift descent through Switzerland’s winter wonderland. Aleks is armed with hot chocolate and cookies so we pause around halfway down the run, setting up camp beside the Unesco-listed Rhaetian Railway for a time out in the snow-covered Narnia I fell in love with at first sight.
Aleks tells us the sweet treats were baked by the Carlton’s pastry chef, who is one of many skilled artists residing in the historic hotel’s kitchens. Just the day before we tucked into the expert’s chocolate energy balls on the Muottas Muragl snowshoeing trail, consuming them at record speed not just because it was -22C and we wanted our hands back in our gloves pronto, but because they were deliciously moreish too.
However, this snowshoeing excursion was no average snowshoeing excursion. The Carlton runs the experience in the evening, by moonlight, when all other adventurers are thawing themselves beside roaring fires after a day on the slopes. During our expedition we have the mountains to ourselves, with nothing but the crunch of fresh snow beneath our feet to break the mystical silence. The conditions are perfect; there’s not a cloud in the night sky and our elevation of almost 2,500 metres high above St Moritz and its neighbouring towns means there’s no light pollution. The stars are shining brighter than I’ve ever seen them, and I can even identify Mars – distinguishable due to its subtle, red glow. This is a scene so special I wish I could bottle it up and take it home with me, but alas, a photo will have to do.
Descending Muottas Muragl in a funicular that’s an experience in its own right we hop from one mode of transport to another – the Carlton’s “fondue gondolas”. These four disused gondola carriages, which we fast dub the “fondulas”, are a fun yet elegant dining experience found beside the hotel’s luxurious lobby. Heated, lit by twinkling fairy lights, kitted out with a Bluetooth speaker and adorned with soft furnishings, we soon settle in for the evening.
Truffle fondue, freshly baked bread (that pastry chef is working their magic again), baby potatoes, cured meats and pickled vegetables are swiftly served up alongside a wine pairing, with every item locally and sustainably sourced. It’s so good, this self-confessed cheese lover impresses even herself with the sheer volume of tangy greatness consumed. It’s a good job I’ve been exerting energy on the slopes…
Speaking of which, we couldn’t visit St Moritz in January without strapping on a pair of skis. I am almost a complete beginner but my instructor Francesco has me nearly ready to progress from “pizza” – AKA snowplough – turns after just one morning on the nursery slope at Salastrains. Successfully dismounting the button lift I begin to snake my way downwards and, feeling confident, attempt a parallel turn. Success! But only for a split second; I turn too far, lose a ski and end up a starfish plastered to the slope. I hear my fellow beginners at the top of the slope belly laughing and I do too. I’m not afraid to make a fool of myself, even in an exclusive destination such as St Moritz – whether tobogganing, snowshoeing or skiing, this is a place where I can be silly and chic.
Skiing lessons, moonlight snowshoeing excursions and tobogganing are all offered by the Carlton Hotel. When meeting an instructor at the hotel, skiing lessons start from £265 for for 1-3 people (excluding ski pass), while snowshoeing costs from £365 for two people including funicular tickets, snowshoe rental, drinks, snacks and hosting by the Outdoor Butler. Tobogganing with the Outdoor Butler is free for Carlton guests on Saturdays and £182pp on other days, again including train tickets, sledge rental, drinks, snacks and hosting.
Rooms at the Carlton Hotel start from £804 per night, based on two adults sharing a deluxe room on a B&B basis, with £91 food and beverage voucher per adult per day, butler service, minibar and access to the spa.
(carlton-stmoritz.ch)
