As we heli-hop among the petroglyphs and watering holes, pilot Dan from North Horizon Heli Adventures declares: “Pretty much everywhere out here that has a bit of water, and a bit of shade, has some rock art – it’s unbelievable. The more you go looking, the more you find – there’s stuff all over.”
With the help of Dan and his colleague Sonam, who reckons there to be more than 3,000 known sites here in Nitmiluk National Park, I map out the ancient designs on the rocks, from fantastical Dreamtime scenes to kangaroo and barramundi fish, indicating locally available foodstuffs.
Back in the air, doors removed for better viewing (or added drama?), I tick off the 13 gorges stretched out below, including two sampled on this morning’s gorge cruise, my hunched frame pummelled by the cross breeze.
How to sell Darwin
Indigenous culture is central to the Northern Territory’s tourism offering, providing ample opportunity to “listen, learn and connect to country”, even in coastal capital Darwin (Garramilla). Here a Larrakia Cultural Centre (2026) and Northern Territory Art Gallery (2027) are in the pipeline. For now, I satisfy myself with a tasty trip to Aboriginal Bush Traders, championing First Nation growers and artists, my breakfast at its cafe bursting with flavours such as native fruits finger lime and Davidson plum.
Served by an international airport and cruise terminal, and forming one end of all-inclusive luxury The Ghan rail adventures, Darwin helms many adventures in Australia’s “Top End”. It’s a logical launchpad for national park adventures in Kakadu and (my choice) the smaller Litchfield and Nitmiluk, plus increasingly accessible Aboriginal heartland Arnhem Land.
Visitors throng nightlife strip Mitchell Street, Mindil Beach’s sunset markets and the family-friendly Waterfront, home to a wave park and my base, Adina Apartments Darwin. Other draws include Fannie Bay Gaol and Botanic Gardens. For croc spotting, consider a sunrise/sunset trip with Yellow Water Cruises.
While short on historic charm (cyclones and World War Two having seen to that), a Walk Darwin tour covers the basics, including street art and how bombing changed the city.
Nature calls
Replete with epic scenery and authentic Aussie experiences, the Top End is an easy sell for outdoor lovers, from hiking and biking to birdwatching and wellness. Leaving Darwin in the company of Rob Woods, co-owner of Top End specialists Ethical Adventures, I’m immediately in nature, where lush geothermal centres such as Berry Springs give way to “open savannah woodland” explains Rob – the red roadside dirt shot through with spear grass and towering cathedral termite mounds.
My late April trip timing proves perfect – the greenery, creeks and waterfalls are flush with wet-season waters, yet easily accessible on the cusp of dry season. Lodges close for the wetter, rougher months: Bamurru Plains, for example, operates March to October, while Finniss River Lodge runs February to December.
“We try to keep it small, to keep it personal,” says manager Chase Johnson, describing the ethos at Finniss River Lodge. From walks and buggy tours to airboat explorations of the vast, wildlife-rich floodplains, adventure is guaranteed at this cattle station turned luxury wilderness lodge, with a minimum two-night stay.
Foraging tours are a specialty. On an airboat ride with Chase and her excitable dog, Cash, we pause to pick some water lilies for use in the lodge’s artisanal gin, which stars on that evening’s gin tasting. Eyes peeled for wildlife, I spy crocs, eagles and jumping barramundi. Later, a unique station experience, Cows and Canapes, comprises tasty nibbles and sundowners served among a herd of curious cows against the backdrop of a technicolour sunset.
Come daybreak, the food and the scenery compete for my attention again on a Surprise and Delight bush breakfast as the rising sun picks out the termite mounds enveloping us.
With their picture windows, the sumptuous rooms deliver, but the staff’s bonhomie really makes it. My nature buggy rides with the ever-affable Peter Taylor prove a firm favourite. Along the way, he points out a variety of trees including pandanus, acacia and turkey bush, revealing their uses. The towering cathedral termite mounds are another area of fascination. “They’re engineers, mate; it’s incredible what they can do,” he asserts, adding excitedly, “Nature will blow your doors off!”
Stopping at a body of water across the dirt road, Pete confides, “There’s a test you can do on the station to see if it’s got a croc in it. If you get out and put your hand in the water, and it’s wet, it’s got a croc in it!” he laughs.
Handily for agents, Finniss is featured by the likes of Dnata and Prestige Travel, as well as in Ethical Adventures’ offerings such as Birds, Buggies and Breakfast. Plus, Finniss partners with local lodges such as Davidson’s, in Arnhem Land, and Banubanu Beach Retreat, for a “Cattle to Coast” package.
Less than a two-hour drive from Darwin, Litchfield National Park’s epic, wild scenery marks a dramatic departure to that of Finniss. It’s little wonder Wangi Falls and Tolmer Falls draw crowds, while Tabletop Swamp makes for a scenic lunch spot, and Buley Rockhole a refreshing afternoon dip, with some glorious bush walks and bush drives to be taken en route.
Gorgeous gorges
There’s scant time to dilly-dally, though, as the indomitable Katherine beckons. Here, over two hospitable nights at Indigenous-owned Cicada Lodge, I explore nearby Nitmiluk National Park (also known as Katherine Gorge), famed for its 13 epic sandstone gorges.
A leisurely sunrise NitNit Dreaming Two Gorge Tour, operated by Nitmiluk Tours, takes in one of those gorges, leaving me spellbound by the ancient sandstone cliffs.
Indigenous experiences are another Katherine strength. I take in a cultural show at Gorge View Bush Retreat, enjoying some sundowners on a panoramic terrace, while Nitmiluk Cultural Centre delivers a demonstration of local Jawoyn culture. As we pull away, Rob Woods muses: “That’s Katherine. It’s a tough place, but there’s islands of brilliance – some amazing people.”
All prove preludes to the main event, however – the aforementioned “flightseeing” Rock Art and Swim helicopter tour, tailorable to clients’ needs. North Horizon Heli Adventures even flies to Kakadu National Park, around 90-minutes away.
