Meet the first-ever TTG LGBT+ Travel Ambassadors
I felt a fuzzy, warm feeling as I sat cross-legged on the floor, watching a group of teenage sisters tease, giggle and squeal with one another as they try to swat a fly with no avail. Between the laughter, I don’t know what they’re saying exactly, but it doesn’t matter. In this tiny room, tucked away off a bustling street in the heart of Old Delhi, the feeling of love is unmistakable.
I’m in the home of guru Malaika and her 15 adopted daughters, alongside four TTG LGBT+ Travel Ambassadors. We’ve been warmly welcomed to share a chicken biryani lunch in celebration of Pride Month in India. Guru Malaika and her family are traditionally known in India as hijras – officially, they’re recognised here as third gender, what might be loosely understood to Western cultures as transgender.
India, popular with travellers for its vibrant culture, heritage and gastronomy, is also a conservative country, and not known to be the most LGBT+ friendly destination. However, there are glimmers of change, thanks to the emergence of projects, spaces and tours that are welcoming to everyone, and run by local members of LGBT+ community.
Meaningful encounters
For the first-ever TTG LGBT+ Travel Ambassadors fam trip, Intrepid created a bespoke itinerary dedicated to these inclusive travel experiences around India’s famed Golden Triangle. This route is undoubtedly best known for its architectural marvels, including Agra’s Taj Mahal and Jaipur’s Amber Fort, but on this trip, these unmissable attractions were blended with authentic and meaningful local encounters that support and connect with India’s marginalised communities.
Guru Malaika’s home was just one example of this. As the Ambassadors and I sat in a circle around her, we listened intently, learning the fascinating and lengthy history of India’s third gender communities. These communities were highly respected for thousands of years, until colonialism dramatically altered their status, bringing centuries of discrimination. Yet – they have endured through the hardship, continuing to preserve their living history and culture today.
When I asked the guru what she hopes to achieve by opening her home to travellers and sharing her story, her answer was simple, yet deeply moving: “We just want to be accepted.”
The TTG LGBT+ Travel Ambassadors were welcomed into the home of a third-gender family in Delhi
As members and allies of the LGBT+ community, the Ambassadors and I felt particularly moved from the experience: “It’s now up to us to share their story and get people to come here,” said Not Just Travel’s Richard Lowrey-Heywood.
One of guru Malaika’s adopted daughters is Batool Ali – a softly-spoken guide and transgender woman who runs Delhi Queer Heritage Walks, a local tour provider collaborating with Intrepid. She met us earlier that day to show us around Old Delhi’s historic monuments – but through the lens of India’s LGBT+ communities. From a shrine dedicated to the 17th-century ‘queer saint of love’ to an 18th-century Mughal mosque constructed by a transgender woman, Ali shared fascinating insight into India’s LGBT+ history that remains little told today.
“A lot of India’s queer history has been erased,” explained Ali. “My goal is to show people from the [LGBT+] community that they belong and always have, and share with the world how much we have achieved already.”
Empowering voices
The next day brought a new local guide, a new city and more revealing stories on India’s little-known LGBT+ history, as we joined a tour in Old Agra led by guide Atmiye Erum. Wandering the grounds of 17th-century Jama Masjid mosque, Erum tells us the third gender can be found in ancient text and transcriptions dating back 2,000 years: “Up to the 16th century, all genders had a voice and a place in India,” said Erum.
“Women and eunuchs [third gender] were among the most trusted members of society.”
The mosque was an important representation of another marginalised group in India today – women. Jama Masjid was constructed by Jahanara Begum, the daughter of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, who famously built the Taj Mahal for his beloved wife. Meanwhile, Jahanara’s impressive feat of engineering is rarely spoken of. “Women’s contributions are often left out of mainstream history,” sighed Erum. “That’s why it’s so important for us to talk about it on this tour, so we can reclaim our heritage.”
Today, women in India are still fighting to reclaim their rightful place and voice in society. This was made clear during our time in Agra, when visiting a social enterprise supported by the Intrepid Foundation: Sheroes Hangout is a cafe that employs women who are survivors of acid attacks.
Sheroes Hangout in Agra is a cafe that provides work to women who have survived acid attacks
Walking into the colourful, light-filled cafe, with murals painted on the walls, we were met by several smiling women who invited us to sit for a traditional lunch – the table filled with dishes including lentil dhaal, chapatis and cumin-spiced potatoes, washed down with freshly blended fruit ice tea. No prices can be found on the menu, inviting an inclusive, pay-what-you-can scheme for visitors.
The Sheroes team played us a short video, sharing the story of the women working here – many who were attacked by family, partners or people they know. Despite their difficult histories, what was recognised most was not sadness, but resilience. There was strength, optimism and a powerful sense of community, and I felt grateful to have been connected to these inspiring women.
Pride of place
For many members of the LGBT+ community, Pride celebrations are one of the most important events of the year. In recognition of this, Intrepid plans some of its itineraries to coincide with some of the world’s best Pride festivities, allowing travellers the chance to connect with international LGBT+ communities. Although our India trip originally aligned with Delhi Pride, unfortunately this was postponed shortly before travelling.
Ensuring our group didn’t miss out on the fun, Intrepid organised a visit to one of Delhi’s only dedicated LGBT+ venues. The lack of parade was not going to stop Depot48 proceeding with its Pride plans: its bar decked out with rainbow streamers, a glittering disco ball, a DJ setlist of LGBT+ anthems, and the dancefloor packed with both locals and travellers here to celebrate with their community and allies.
Richard Lowrey-Heywood, Not Just Travel
I will tell my clients to come to India with an open mind and open heart and get ready for their senses to be overloaded. The guides that we have had, even our driver, have let us see the real India. Intrepid have arranged everything for us: entertainment, food, accommodation and a lot of fun. I came here with strangers, and I’m now leaving with friends who I will stay in touch with. I’ve never done a group tour before, but now I cannot recommend them enough.
Megan O’Leary, Travel Counsellors
As an LGBTQIA+ traveller myself, and a travel agent, I think we are very much in the habit of pigeon-holing where we can go as a community in the world. Intrepid trips are a really great way to be able to branch out in a way that is safe. The guides are all trained to cater to LGBTQIA+ individuals as well, providing that additional layer of public knowledge and travel that little bit further into a destination – down side streets, into homes, into local restaurants and shops. They really give you that authentic experience.
Linda Reynolds, The Personal Travel Agents at Your Coop
Intrepid has the best tour guides that bring destinations to life for you. Their inside knowledge and contacts allow you to have experiences you couldn’t possibly do on your own. Other tips I would share is to look at places where group experiences are enhanced, whether that’s Bollywood dancing, a cooking class or a walking trip – other people you meet on the tour will enhance this for you, and Intrepid brings together the best of people from all around the world to make it a special experience.
David Knight, Swords Travel
It has been such an impactful trip. From the classic highlights to meeting the LGBTQIA+ community out in India – it’s been amazing to connect with them and exchange stories. When we get home in weeks, months and years to come, I think we’ll remember this trip and how powerful it has been.
Ahead of the party, the venue’s co-founder Vikas Narula – a proud member of the LGBT+ community himself – joined our Intrepid group for dinner. From drag shows to karaoke nights, Narula explained how Depot48 grew from hosting its famous ‘Pink Thursdays’ one night a week, into a safe-haven for LGBT+ travellers all year round.
“The reason we [Depot48] have been successful is because it’s never been about the business, it’s been about creating a safe space for the LGBT+ community,” Narula said. “This is what keeps people coming back.”
For LGBT+ members, travel can raise lots of questions around safety that others wouldn’t consider – especially in countries like India, where LGBT+ communities remain largely underground. Intrepid has recognised this, and finds spaces – like Depot48 – where everyone can feel comfortable, happy and welcome.
New perspectives
Despite the curated itinerary, our group felt far from excluded from experiencing India in its fullest. From wandering bustling Chandni Chowk bazaar and hopping between street food stalls in Delhi to Bollywood dance lessons and riding tuktuks in Jaipur, the Ambassadors and I were fully immersed in the true essence of Northern India.
But none of this would have felt possible without Anjali, our confident and highly trained Intrepid guide of 10+ years. Accompanying us for the entire Golden Triangle itinerary, not only did Anjali’s impressive knowledge and storytelling ability provide us with a deeper understanding of India, but also gave us access to homes, streets and restaurants we would never have felt comfortable visiting without her – the entire group agreed.
Views from a sunrise hot air balloon ride across Rajasthan countryside
Anjali, and even our private minibus driver, became an integral part of the entire experience. In fact, the group camaraderie was a highlight for everyone: “I came here with a group of strangers, and I’m going home with friends for life,” Richard shared with us all over a reflective final night dinner.
Beyond friendships, travelling with others also provided the LGBT+ Travel Ambassadors with a boost in confidence: “When you’re in a group environment, you are masked that little bit more, and that gives you more freedom,” said Megan O'Leary, an agent for Travel Counsellors.
Perhaps a moment that encapsulated the trip most was a sunrise hot air balloon ride above the Rajasthan countryside, just outside of Jaipur. As we floated up to 2,000ft into the sky, the sun’s first light bathing the below farmlands and hills in warm ochre tones, our Ambassadors unraveled an enormous Progress Pride flag: its rainbow colours billowing over the side of the basket. Much like being in this balloon, our journey with Intrepid had allowed us to see India from a new perspective – and provided safe, inclusive and uplifting spaces and experiences for our agents to travel proudly and freely. Admiring our glowing Ambassadors, I felt the warm, fuzzy feeling all over again.
Fly with an ally
Virgin Atlantic supported the LGBT+ Travel Ambassadors on their journey to Delhi, flying them from Heathrow on one of the airline's daily flights, which takes 8-10 hours.
Ahead of boarding, Jon Hilton, Virgin Atlantic’s senior global account manager (corporate sales) and vice chair of the Pride@VirginAtlantic network, invited the Ambassadors to view the Upper Class Wing – an exclusive airport entrance for all Upper Class or Delta One passengers to check in and be escorted to the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse within 10 minutes.
The TTG LGBT+ Travel Ambassadors visited Virgin Atlantic's Upper Class Wing at Heathrow Airport
The Clubhouse at London Heathrow is an extensive lounge with multiple areas and private corners to dine, work or just relax ahead of flights. Whether sitting at a bar stool or on comfortable beanbags, guests can order from the locally sourced, 70% plant-based menu using QR codes on tables, with everything brought directly to them. The TTG LGBT+ Travel Ambassadors enjoyed the airline’s signature cocktails – the Virgin Redhead – to kick off their India adventure. Fun fact(s): At 14 metres, the Clubhouse has the longest bar at Heathrow, as well as the airport’s only open-air terrace with views out across Terminal 3.
I always recommend Virgin Atlantic for their award-winning service and thoughtful extras that really elevate long-haul travel. Our trip to India was enhanced by the attentive staff, where nothing was too much trouble. From complimentary meals, drinks, and great food choices in Economy to in-seat power and strong entertainment, the experience feels modern and comfortable. If you’re travelling with family, the kids’ packs and child-friendly entertainment are a lovely touch, while Premium and Upper Class offer snack bars, Clubhouse lounges and small details like wine tastings and Love Hearts at the end of the flight that make the journey feel fun and personal.
The Ambassadors also discovered how Virgin Atlantic champions diversity, equality and inclusivity among its passengers and crew members. Its ‘Be Yourself’ manifesto is an example of this, allowing crew to wear uniforms of their choice, use pronoun badges and have visible tattoos.
For passengers, the inclusive onboard entertainment has been thoughtfully considered. Whether films representing LGBT+ communities, short 15-minute dementia-friendly films, or meditation videos that may help nervous or neurodivergent passengers, there are hundreds of options available that make sure everyone feels recognised and supported.
For years, Virgin Atlantic has been a loud voice for the LGBT+ community, with recent campaign videos including ‘I am what I am’ to ‘Be a rainbow in the clouds’ – both offering powerful messages and encouraging both passengers and crew to embrace and celebrate all our differences. The airline’s latest initiative is the ‘Free to be Me’ programme, dedicated to LGBT+ travellers. The programme has introduced LGBT+ friendly destination guides and Pride-certified hotels.
Flying with Virgin Atlantic is seamless from the start. The staff are so friendly, and the aircraft is really inviting to walk onto. Freedom of expression is important to me, and I was impressed hearing more about uniform policies amongst their crew and ground staff – allowing them to choose from a range of gender-aligned and gender-neutral uniform pieces which best represent their identity. Inclusion can be found on every level with Virgin Atlantic, visible in small details, such as the 15-minute dementia-friendly TV options. In 2026, I want to lean towards travel suppliers that resonate with my personal values, and Virgin Atlantic will be one of these.
Discover more of what the TTG LGBT+ Travel Ambassadors learned during their travels across India with Intrepid and Virgin Atlantic
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