The sun is setting and I’m bobbing around on a yacht in the Caribbean Sea as the sky turns a deep, dark pink.
Rum punch is flowing like water, our onboard chef has whipped up some delicious snacks from the tiny galley kitchen and our guide is relaying the history of Grenada. Safe to say my introduction to the Caribbean has been a good one so far.
A sunset boat trip is just one activity clients can choose from when they visit Grenada and is the perfect introduction to life on the island, one that is the same size as the Isle of Wight. With its small island feel – there’s a population of just 110,000 – Grenada is authentic Caribbean at its best, and I felt lucky this was my first experience of the region.
Most of the main attractions and experiences are also fairly close to each other, one of the many selling points when it comes to booking a trip to the Spice Island, so called because of its production of a wide variety of spices, especially nutmeg, along with cinnamon, cloves, cocoa and turmeric.
As a first-timer to these islands, I wasn’t sure what to expect: I’d heard all about the pristine white-sand beaches, the vibrant culture, the food, the people – but could it live up to the hype?
The simple answer is yes. After landing at Maurice Bishop International airport we took a leisurely 15-minute transfer to Grenada’s southernmost point. The first thing that struck me was how slowly everyone drove; all the better for passing through colourful neighbourhoods en route to the hotel, as a sense of calm enveloped me, one which would thankfully remain for the duration of my five-day stay.
Set in picture-perfect Prickly Bay, loyal customers return time and again to The Calabash Hotel – and it’s easy to see why. February 2025 marks 40 years since Leo Garbutt first stepped foot in Grenada from the UK and the hotel has been in his family ever since, now under the expert leadership of sisters Adele, Beth and Bobbie, who have poured their heart and soul into ensuring this five-star boutique hotel stays at the top of its game.
Home, Sweet Home
With just 30 suites designed in a contemporary colonial style arranged in a semi-circle around a bouncy green lawn, Calabash is exquisite and exclusive.
I stayed in a newly refurbished Pool Suite with beach views, a spacious veranda, lounge area decorated with calming pink and cream hues, large double bedroom, marble bathroom with Elemis amenities, and even an outdoor plunge pool. Is there any better feeling than taking a dip outside to the sound of palm trees rustling and tropical birds singing above you? Nope.
Nothing was too much trouble for the friendly staff – whose many missions included delivering homemade cookies and rum punch to my room upon arrival (and topping them up throughout my stay) and delivering pre-dinner canapes to guest bedrooms every evening.
Located on a peninsula just outside the resort, you might also want to consider Calabash’s four villas for clients, which offer the feeling of a private home and range from two to five bedrooms, mixing Balinese- and Grenadian-style furnishings in luxurious comfort. They are perfect for larger groups or multigenerational families who are looking for privacy but still want the benefits of the hotel’s five-star amenities and direct beach access.
Foodie favourite
A proud Relais & Chateaux property, Calabash’s food offering is a huge draw for clients who appreciate first-class food and dining. There are three restaurants under the leadership of executive chef, Nicholas Pena Alvarez: The Beach Club, Rhodes (previously under the leadership of late chef Gary Rhodes) and Japanese-inspired Nori. Calabash collaborates with local farmers, fishermen and suppliers as well as using produce from the family estate, L’Esterre, to bring guests the best of everything.
The Beach Club is all about laid-back dining: think fresh lobster, curry-filled West Indian rotis, small plates of grilled steak tostones and coconut shrimp, pizzas, salads and Grenadian chocolate and caramel tart.
Breakfast is also served here along with a dinner service on certain nights. I preferred to eat breakfast on my veranda, where staff delivered the fluffiest French toast with caramelised star fruit, piping hot tea and crisp white linen for the table; I wish every day could start like this.
Rhodes’ menu leans more towards fine dining, but there’s nothing formal or stuffy about eating here. A la carte options include everything from asparagus veloute and lobster gnocchi to braised beef short rib and miso-glazed aubergine.
Save room for Calabash’s Opera Cake – this feathery light sweet treat is like something you’d devour in one of Paris’s finest patisseries. Complimentary afternoon tea is also served every day in the beautifully furnished lounge next to Rhodes.
Calabash’s poolside Japanese restaurant, Nori, fuses Japanese and Peruvian dishes to great effect. Diners can feast on hand rolls, the freshest ceviche, teriyaki tuna, crispy tempura and indulgent lemongrass creme brulee.
Guests also have the option to have dinner on a private beachside pontoon during their stay, where we ate with Adele and Beth, two of the Garbutt sisters, whose generous hospitality and infectious passion for what they do set the standard for our stay.
Out and about
It would be easy to never leave Calabash, but that would mean missing out on discovering volcanic craters and lush rainforests, snorkelling trips and getting creative with a cooking class at Home Hospitality Grenada, where we tasted Grenada’s national dish, Oil Down, a salted meat and vegetable stew.
Our host was something of a local legend and prepared us a garden-to-table meal with produce grown on his own property. Eating with him and his family in their home was a real privilege and the perfect activity for clients looking for more experience-led travel.
Listed as one of National Geographic’s 25 Wonders of the World, Grenada’s Molinere Bay Underwater Sculpture Park is a must for snorkelling and art enthusiasts.
Artist Jason deCaires Taylor has created an underwater garden, said to be the first of its kind, that showcases 75 sculptures over an area of 800 square metres. At depths of five to eight metres, the sculptures are located in a series of sand patches and gullies between natural rock formations and are easily accessible for divers, snorkellers and glass-bottom boats.
We also visited the Annandale Waterfalls – but think twice before recommending this: I wasn’t keen on people greeting me at the entrance with a monkey on a chain offering to take pictures, which seemed quite out of step with tourism trends towards animal welfare. Instead, a visit to the Grand Etang National Park & Forest Reserve is a more eco-friendly option.
Grenada’s buzzing capital of St George’s is a pleasant place to wander, giving visitors a glimpse into day-to-day life on the island. There’s a vibrant market to explore, an immersive House of Chocolate Museum where you can indulge in the island’s best chocolate products, local shops and authentic Grenadian restaurants.
Many may also make the climb up to Fort George, the 18th-century stronghold, or swoon over the brightly coloured boats and buildings that surround the horseshoe-shaped harbour, or ponder who the megayachts belong to.
Back at the hotel, Calabash’s beach is everything I’d imagined of the Caribbean: crystal-clear water perfect for swimming, white sand and a perfectly formed cove. Friendly waiters delivered ice cold water and fresh juice to revive us on beach days and all guests get free use of the hotel’s non-motorised watersports.
For those in search of more serious water-based adventures, there’s a small diving centre that can organise diving trips. There’s also a tennis court, small boutique, bocce-ball court, 24-hour gym and yoga pavilion where guests can find their zen under the bright blue Caribbean sky.
Also onsite is a small spa where I was treated to a “zero miles” spa treatment. Relaxing, rejuvenating treatments use local Grenadian products like lemongrass, honey, flowers and oils. Guests can also opt for Elemis facials, cocoa-infused massages and other signature treatments. The large infinity pool overlooks Calabash’s pretty gardens with plenty of sun loungers and parasols for some serious relaxation.
Those looking for some authentic Grenadian nightlife, I’d suggest making a beeline for the West Indies Beer Company or The Junction, both just a five-minute walk from the hotel. I visited both (in the name of research, obviously) and can confirm they’re the best places for a late-night drink and dancing with a mixed crowd of locals and international students.
For clients looking for an easy-going Caribbean island that offers good food, plenty of culture, adventure, easy connections from the UK and the best beaches, Grenada should most certainly be on their radar. And there’s no better place for them to experience it all than at The Calabash Hotel.
How to book it
Carrier offers seven nights at Calabash from £3,785pp based on two adults sharing a Westside Suite. Price is based on 7 June departure; valid for travel between 1 May-31 October; includes complimentary half board (for minimum four-night stays); flights with British Airways from Gatwick; and private transfers in resort.
