You first realise you’re visiting a country that’s quite unlike any other as you leave Iceland’s Keflavik airport and weave through an eerie, lunar-like landscape of black volcanic rock carpeted with green-brown moss.

My destination is The Retreat at Blue Lagoon – set amid one of Iceland’s most popular attractions once featured in National Geographic’s “25 Wonders of the World” – and as we walk into the huge lobby we’re met by a beautiful contrast of concrete walls softened by classic Scandinavian furniture and stylish design touches such as casual tables hewn from the surrounding volcanic rock.

Nature’s gift

Our host is Chandra Dillon, global PR specialist for Blue Lagoon Iceland and The Retreat at Blue Lagoon, who gives us a history lesson. Far from being a natural phenomenon, she says, the Blue Lagoon is actually man-made, a happy by-product of the nearby Svartsengi Resource Park, which vents superheated water from deep below the surface to drive turbines and produce electricity for the region.

The excess hot water from the process was originally intended to filter back down through the volcanic rock but due to its high silica content it began to form an impermeable barrier on the ground, creating a lagoon of shimmering blue water. It was subsequently discovered that bathing in the mineral-rich water greatly alleviated skin conditions such as psoriasis, and in 1992 the Blue Lagoon company was founded to continue research into the water’s healing properties alongside the development of a spa facility, a clinic hotel (which then became current boutique hotel Silica) and, most recently, The Retreat in 2018.

A warm feeling

Guests at The Retreat can enjoy its labyrinth of smaller, private lagoons adjacent to the resort – all using the same geothermic heated water from Svartsengi and kept at a constant 38C. It’s dark outside by the time I get the chance to change for a dip, and it’s an “ahhhh” moment as I sink my shoulders from the icy winds into the bath-like temperature of the mini-lagoons that weave their way around the outside of the property. I saunter through to the adjoining spa, featuring a sauna, steam room, plunge pool, relaxation rooms and the resort’s signature treatment, “The Ritual”.

Deep in the spa’s subterranean chambers, guests are invited to self-administer the Blue Lagoon’s “trinity of wonders” – minerals, silica and algae – to rejuvenate the skin and improve circulation. It’s strange sitting next to total strangers caked in algae but after a quick shower my skin really does look fresher and (in my mind, anyway) a tad more youthful. It’s worth mentioning that mobile phones are not allowed in the spa area, but if guests want that special shot of themselves in the pool to share on social media, the spa staff are happy to take pics and send them on via email.

Feeding the soul

After refreshing mind and soul in the spa, it’s time to refuel the body, and there are plenty of dining options. For an informal snack or light meal, the spa has its own dining area, or head to Lava Restaurant, an informal venue overlooking the main lagoon and featuring an a la carte menu and children’s meals. My destination, though, is the resort’s Michelin Guide-recommended Moss Restaurant for one of its six-course “guest chef and paired wines series” events.

Executive chef Agnar “Aggi” Sverrisson, is an Iceland native who took up the reins at Moss in 2020. He spent two years with Raymond Blanc at the renowned Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons before opening his own Michelin-starred restaurant, Texture, in London. When I meet Sverrisson a few hours before the meal, he tells me his style is “Icelandic with Asian influences and flavours”, which I later discover perfectly reflected in the third course of local langoustines with miso, dashi and sesame seeds.

These popular evenings on the Icelandic culinary calendar are joint-hosted by a range of renowned chefs, and tonight Sverrisson is joined by Ollie Dabbous, the British co-founder and executive chef of Michelin-starred Hide restaurant in London. They know each other well, having worked together at both Le Manoir and Texture, and that shared history is apparent as they create three dishes each to complement the wines chosen by master sommelier Clement Robert.

It’s an haute cuisine evening with spectacularly good food but the atmosphere isn’t stuffy – we’re delighted when Dabbous himself comes to the table to see how the menu is progressing and proceeds to shave thick slices of truffle over smoked mashed potato with red wine gravy – the second course and his take on a British classic. After working our way through a menu that includes sumptuous Wagyu steak and bee pollen panna cotta, we’re presented with a stunning array of desserts, from salted caramel and liquorice-filled chocolates to delicate macarons and cinnamon Madeleines.

The very first of these special events featured Raymond Blanc in February 2022, and the second was with Amuse Bouche Winery in August. In 2023, Sverisson says, the first collaboration will be with Domaine Bonneau du Martray in February, with two more to follow with as yet unnamed co-hosts in May and November.

Suite retreat

Suitably sated I retire to my Moss Junior Suite, one of 62 in the property featuring floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over the lagoons and volcanic landscape.

Nice touches include a box of chocolate truffles by Moss Restaurant’s chocolatier; illy coffee machine and pods; Bluetooth speakers; freestanding bathtub with lagoon view (which can’t be overlooked due to a clever configuration); luxurious Blue Lagoon Skincare products including hand and body wash, shampoo, conditioner and body lotion; and a fully stocked mini bar. I sink back into my impossibly comfortable bed and drift off into blissful sleep, dreaming of the truly out-of-this-world experiences the Retreat at Blue Lagoon has to offer its guests.

How to book it

A Moss Junior Suite at retreat.bluelagoon.com starts from £1,245 per night (winter, spring and autumn – prices increase for summer and festive period). Rate includes unlimited access to the Retreat Spa, Retreat Lagoon, Blue Lagoon Ritual and the Blue Lagoon; in-room Blue Lagoon Skincare products; daily breakfast, yoga and afternoon tea; in-room mini bar with soda, beer, and wine; 15% off Blue Lagoon Skincare products during the stay; WiFi; resort fee; and valet parking. Icelandair offers economy flights from Heathrow to Keflavik airport from £190pp – visit icelandair.com/en-gb/