British Airways might have pulled the plug on flights to Sri Lanka earlier this year, but consumer confidence in the island nation is booming. Last year overall tourism arrivals hit a record high of more than 1.5 million, and from figures released thus far it looks like 2015 is set to surpass those numbers.
Founding father of tea brand Dilmah and eco-tourism pioneer Merrill J Fernando had faith in the country as a worthy destination, even before the end of the country’s civil war, in 2009: this year marks the 10th anniversary of his first endeavour into the hotels market, Ceylon Tea Trails. A collection of four tea planters bungalows set around a lake, the Tea Trails properties are nestled among the tea plantations of Sri Lanka’s hill country, which bristle with greenery. Each comes with its own chef and butler, and features four to six amply sized bedrooms.
Such is the level of relaxation at Tea Trails that room keys are not handed out unless requested, there are no set dining times and within 15 minutes of arriving my travelling companion fell into a deep sleep: the gentle patter of rain on the veranda the only soundtrack to his slumber.
Although Sri Lanka’s luxury accommodation sector is thriving, Tea Trails’ home-from-home feel is difficult to imitate. Built between 1888 and 1950 the four fully-inclusive bungalows have a pared-down style, with white walls and fireplaces lined with antique curios and old books. The amiable and obliging staff only further the feeling that you’re simply staying with a hospitable family friend.
Clients that want to alternate trying local delicacies with more familiar international fare will do well at Tea Trails. We devoured cauliflower soup, tuna steaks and rhubarb crumble in one sitting, while the following evening we sampled a steady parade of Sri Lankan home-style cooking: caramelised fingers of aubergine; smashed potatoes with chilli and mustards seeds; and a thick, spiced dhal.
With a daily gastronomic agenda that includes afternoon tea, pre-dinner cocktails and canapes and breakfast tea – served in bed by the butler – it would be easy to while away your time at Tea Trails purely eating and drinking. But there’s plenty more to do: from taking a tour of the Dilmah tea factory to walking the trails between bungalows and climbing pilgrimage site Adam’s Peak, the activities available provide ample opportunity to curb culinary indulgences by exploring the surrounds. The mixture of decadence and active pursuits proved just my cup of tea.
